9 Aug 2023 Prakash Devkota
Ama Dablam is the third-most-popular peak in the Himalayas for mountaineering expeditions. Translated into ‘Mother’s Necklace,’ this glorious peak in the Himalayan range looks like a necklace hugging and protecting the base valley like a mother’s embrace. Known for its unprecedented natural allurements, this beautiful mountain is also compared to the Alps mountain Matterhorn in Switzerland.
Although it is a glorious expedition to the Himalayan region, the Ama Dablam expedition is not an easy feat; the high altitude, rugged trails, snow-rock-ice climbing, and technical segments on the mountain slopes make it a challenging climb. Climbed by Sir Edmund Hillary for the first time on 13th March 1961, this stunning mountain peak in the Himalayan range has been a dream peak for many mountaineering enthusiasts.
Among the eight available routes for the summit of Ama Dablam, the southwest ridge taken by Hillary for his first summit is considered to be the safest route to reach the top of the mountain.
However, it’s not smooth sailing even on the safest route; the success rate of the Ama Dablam expedition on the southwest ridge is 60% to 70%, even though among those failed attempts, 85% to 90% is considered due to lack of preparation. So what is the true difficulty level of Ama Dablam climbing, and what makes this expedition challenging?
Ama Dablam Difficulty Grading
Ama Dablam is one of the most popular peaks in the Himalayan range that is considered an ideal expedition for beginners. Most budding mountaineering enthusiasts take up the challenge to this peak before their big expedition on the highest mountain in the world, Mt. Everest (8,849 meters), or other 8,000-meter class mountains.
Nevertheless, it is not an easy expedition; the technical segments of the mountain can be easy, moderate, and difficult, but they aren’t extreme sections on the mountain that require a great level of expertise. Thus, in general, Ama Dablam climbing can be considered a ‘technically hard and challenging’ expedition. You will need some level of mountaineering skills to ascend the slopes of this mountain using mountaineering tools like crampons, ice axes, cams, jumar, and ropes.
The rock climbing segments on Ama Dablam have been graded 4..1 to 5.7- 5.10 difficulty level in terms of rock climbing and ice climbing difficulty rating of WI3- 4, which means the slopes of the mountain have sustained 80º-90º long bulges for good stances to place screws to continuous 80º long section with 90º broken ice segments.
Similarly, in the SAC (Swiss Alpine Club) mountaineering grading system, Mt. Dablam, in the 6,500-meter class, has been graded the difficulty level of ‘TD’ (Très difficile), a very difficult and challenging mountain expedition.
The fitness level for this expedition in the SAC grading system is at ‘Fitness Level 5’, which means that an ordinary level of fitness is not suited for this expedition. Climbers need to have excellent physical fitness to deal with the longer days of adventure at higher elevations and to overcome the challenging segments on the mountain.
Ama Dablam Difficulty Factors
Several factors contribute to the difficulty level of Mt. Ama Dablam; let’s break down these factors to check what really makes this exhilarating adventure in the Himalayas challenging and difficult.
Technical Sections
Of course, the technical segments on any mountain significantly contribute to the difficulty level of the expedition. Mt. Ama Dablam is no exception; in this case, the technical segments on the slopes of this mountain are quite challenging and hard to overcome.
Ama Dablam difficulty with its technical prospects varies from route to route; there are eight different climbing routes to the commit, but the most popular commercialized route is the southwest ridge route used by the first ascender of the mountain, Sir Edmund Hillary.
The sheer vertical ascend on the mountain adds up challenges for the climbers; the whole climbing segment on the mountain depends on the fixed rope set by the expedition team. Climbers will ascend the mountain using the fixed rope starting from Camp I (5,700 meters) to the summit of the mountain at 6,812 meters.
The route from Camp I to Camp II (5,900 meters) is one of the most technically challenging segments of the mountain as the climb to the ‘Yellow Tower’ requires the climbers to overcome a 90º vertical ascend.
Similarly, the ‘Mushroom Ridge’ located between Camp II and Camp III (6,200 meters) is another major contributing factor to Mt. Ama Dablam difficulty. Climbers have to climb on the steep rocky face of the mountain to reach the sharp ridge, which has about 600-meter drops on both sides of the mountain.
Altitude Gain
The altitude gain in any high-altitude adventure goes hand in hand with altitude sickness; with major altitude gain, the risk of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High-Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), and High-Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) also drastically increases. Your body starts to show symptoms of altitude sickness after ascending over an altitude of 2,500 meters; that’s why it is necessary to take proper precautions and acclimatize properly during high-altitude adventures like the Mt. Ama Dablam expedition.
Starting your journey from Lukla (2,800 meters), Ama Dablam Expedition takes you through different elevation points like Namche Bazaar (3,445 meters), Deboche (3,820 meters), and Pheriche (4,300 meters) to finally at Ama Dablam Base Camp (4,800 meters).
The altitude gain in the alpine environment can be much harsher as you will be constantly dealing with the cold climate; Camp I (5,700 meters), Camp II (5,900 meters), and Camp III (6,200 meters).
Thus, physical a great level of physical fitness is required to deal with the elevation properly gained during this expedition. And you also need to select the right packages with enough acclimatization days that lets you settle properly into the new altitude to reduce the Ama Dablam difficulty.
Weather and Climatic Conditions
The weather and climatic in the alpine environment are considered to be harsh and unpredictable; this expedition in the Himalayan range that is spread across 500 miles in Nepal also faces similar challenges. The harsh and unpredictable climatic condition of the Himlayas also plays a major role in elevating the Ama Dablam difficulty. The blizzards, avalanches, rock falls, etc., are some outcomes of the severe weather and climatic conditions on the mountain slopes.
Ama Dablam’s temperature can drop to as low as -20°C during the daytime at higher altitudes, and the summit temperature is around -30°C, so it is also essential to understand the season you are setting out on the adventure.
The off-season, like monsoon (June- August) and winter (November- February), have the harshest climatic conditions. Not only will they contribute significantly to the Ama Dablam difficulty level, but they also create unfavorable and life-threatening circumstances.
For instance, the heavy monsoon rainfall makes the trekking trail really hard to overcome, and the risk of floods-landslide makes this Himalayan expedition a risk-filled venture.
Similarly, the cold-harsh winter makes it hard to acclimatize to the environment properly, and the trails are covered in snow, demanding extra effort even to overcome the trekking trails. Plus, the heavy snowfall means a higher risk of avalanches. The best way to minimize the weather and climatic difficulty would be to set out on the Mera Peak expedition during the peak seasons, like spring and autumn, with more favorable and warmer weather.
Remoteness
For those of you who haven’t previously done a Himalayan expedition before, what you need to understand is the exploration of the Himalayas are remote adventures that follow off-beaten paths. The services in this remote part of the Himalayan region might not meet the expectation you have for your luxurious destinations.
The teahouses along the trail are run by the local Sherpa families who provide basic fooding and accommodation facilities. You will mostly have two or three beds in a room and share a bathroom; the shower and bathroom facilities of the remote part of the Himalayas are not top-tier, and you will have to make do with whatever is available.
Despite the ground transportation in Kathmandu and flight to Lukla, the major part of this expedition will be trekking on foot; there aren’t any transportation modes available in the region. The same goes for the health checkposts; there are only a few spread across the route, and you will have to rely on helicopter rescue for health emergencies.
However, although the services may not be complementary to the exotic vacation destination, some popular destinations in the mainstream trekking route feature some high-end accommodations and extensive eatery menus; Lukla and Namche Bazaar. Thus it is very important to prepare yourself to overcome the challenges in this remote Himalayan exploration.
How to Minimize the Ama Dablam Difficulty?
Although this exhilarating and fascinating exploration of the Himlayas does pack some difficulty level, it doesn’t mean that there are not any countermeasures for it. There are several aspects you can work on to reduce the Ama Dablam difficulty level.
Proper Physical Preparation
A proper amount of physical preparation comes really handy during high-altitude adventures. Not only will it increase your endurance and strength level for long hours of adventures on uneven grounds, but it will also help you to acclimatize to the increasing altitude properly.
If you have a good level of fitness, your body will require less amount of oxygen, enhancing your body’s capabilities to deliver oxygen to muscles; cardiovascular exercises will also boost your stamina, helping you build a better endurance level. Here are some physical exercises you can include in your training regime.
Strength Exercises: Plank, push-ups, weight lifting, square, lunges, dumbbell row, curls, squat, deadlift, pull-ups, bench presses, etc
Cardiovascular Exercises: Jogging, treadmill, jumping rope, pilates, swimming, burpees, etc
**Note: It is recommended that you should at least start your preparation for the Ama Dablam climbing at least 6- 8 months prior to the expedition.**
Mental Preparation
As the Ama Dablam expedition is a physically exerting Himalayan exploration, it is natural for the climbers to prioritize physical preparation. However, mental preparation shouldn’t be overlooked either; it requires both a great level of physical capability and determination to complete a mountain expedition.
Whether it be dealing with unforeseen climatic conditions on the slopes of the mountain, inconveniences due to lack of luxury services, or just simply physical exertion that starts to wear down the body.
Without the willingness to go on and the right amount of determination to complete the adventure, it will be difficult to successfully complete the expedition. Here are some mental preparation tips that will help you to overcome the Ama Dablam difficulty factors:
- Mental toughness, preparing yourself for any kind of circumstances
- Mediation; practiced breathing to stay calm and assess the situations properly
- Building habit of staying positive
- Learn to be comfortable outside your comfort zone
- Boost your confidence with enough preparation
- Visualization of the expedition; motivates you to overcome difficulty with one step at a time mindset
Choose a Package With Extra Acclimatization Days
Altitude sickness is a major threat in a high-altitude adventure, so in order to reduce the Ama Dablam difficulty level, choosing an expedition package with longer days and enough acclimatization days will be the right choice. The success rate of this climb is directly related to the number of expeditions; if you choose the packages with longer trek days, you will not have to rush your adventure and will get enough time to acclimatize properly to the environment.
As a result, with enough rest and good adaption ability to cope with the new altitude, the probability of a successful summit drastically increases. We here at Peak Climbing Nepal 28-Days Ama Dablam Expedition that follows the scenic- popular route with enough acclimatization days for a more immersive and fulfilling experience.
Acquire Mountaineering Skills
Overcoming the SAC ‘TD’ graded mountain slope, very difficult and challenging, is not an easy feat. To overcome the technical segments of Ama Dablam, you will require an adequate level of mountaineering skills and expertise.
If you are new to mountaineering sports and have only done straight walk-up mountain expeditions, it is recommended that you should take mountaineering classes which will shave off the Ama Dablam difficulty to some extent.
These advanced mountaineering classes last somewhere between 30 to 45 days, which will help you attain all the necessary skills required for this expedition.
For this expedition, it is recommended that you should be comfortable with multi-pitch climbs up to grade 5.10 (a,b, and c) and also with mixed climbing, as there are rocky and icy segments on the slope. Climbing with ice axe support is a must during the expedition of Ama Dablam, and you should be ready for a long descent as you climb down from the summit using the safety rope on the fixed line.
Although this expedition is considered to be a practice expedition or training ground for beginner mountaineers, you will require previous climbing experience on a mountain of 4,000 meters or a 6,000 meters class to be eligible for the climb.
Find the Right Gears
As it is a long expedition, it is very important to find the right gear for your expedition. You don’t want to end up with blisters or long sleeves just because you were lazy to buy them prior to your expedition and had to rush the shopping at the deadline.
Gear inspection is also important to make sure that your tools are functioning properly; figuring it out at the mountain slopes may not have a pleasant outcome as you expect. So, take your time to shop for all the necessary mountaineering gear and make sure they are branded and from a reliable company.
Some Basics Gears for Ama Dablam Expedition
- Alpine axe
- Helmet
- Carabineer
- Crampons
- Jumars
- Belay devices
- Ascenders
- Trekking poles
- Mountaineering harness
- Locking carabineer
For further information about the Essential gears and equipment needed for the Ama Dablam expedition
Choose the Peak Season for Expedition
The climbing experience is more soothing and exhilarating during the peak seasons when you don’t have to worry about weather conditions. Generally, in Nepal, the peak seasons, like spring (March-May) and autumn (September- November), are considered to be the best time for any high-altitude adventure. So. if you choose any of these seasons for your expeditions, it will most definitely reduce the Ama Dablam difficulty level to some extent.
The days are warmer during these peak seasons with stable weather and dry trekking trails, You will also be able to enjoy the clear visibility that will include even the alluring peaks on the farthest corner to your Himalayan vistas. Autumn season is cool and breezy in the region; the temperature usually hovers around 15°- 20°C during the daytime and can drop as low as 5°C- 10°C in the early mornings and night.
Similarly, during spring, when the whole Himalayan region is blooming with life, temperature staggers between 10°C-15°C in the daytime and can drop up to -5°C at night time.
Some Additionals Tips to Tackle Ama Dablam Difficulty
- Read about the expedition and the route you are taking
- Waterproof your stuff
- Bring a 2-liter water bottle and thermos (important to stay hydrated throughout the expedition)
- Enjoy a slow-paced adventure, don’t exert yourself
- Always stretch properly before you trekking and climbing
- Carry a first aid kit and other prescribed medication in sufficient amount
- Carry snacks and energy bars with you (you might need that extra bite during a long day’s adventure)
- Eat a healthy balanced diet; even if you lose your appetite with the elevation gain, force yourself for at least a few bites (after a few bites, your system will start to accept the food slowly)
- Carry altitude sickness medications after consulting with your doctor (Diamox, dexamethasone, ibuprofen)
- Communicate with your mountaineering guide and expedition leader in case of any complications
- Know your limits and just enjoy
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Prakash Devkota
Managing Director and Team Leader
Mr. Prakash Chandra Devkota is an established name in the Tourism Sector in Nepal. He is a focused individual gifted with a brilliant mind. He is also hugely dedicated to social work. Born in the Gorkha district, a beautiful hilly region of Nepal, he first entered the tourism industry as a guide in 1997. He has gained extensive experience in almost all the trekking and climbing routes like Mera, Island, Lobuche and, Ama Dablam, etc.
He registered Nepal Guides Treks & Expedition in 2009 AD. Due to his passion for adventure and efforts to provide quality personalized service to his clients, he has established himself as a successful tourism entrepreneur. He has dedicated most of his time working diligently to elevate the tourism industry and collected more than 15 years of experience in organizing trekking and expeditions in Nepal, Bhutan, and India. He believes in the power of the tourism industry and the employment opportunities that can be created through it. He constantly looks for innovative ways to run the company.
Mr. Devkota has always been an avid practitioner of eco-friendly tourism and has always promoted environmental conservation throughout his career. He motivates his staff to embrace eco-friendly tourism through responsible tourism practices. He believes promoting eco-tourism will preserve natural resources and positively impact the environment.
