25 Jan 2021 Peak Climbing Nepal
Climbing Ama Dablam requires various types of gear both technical and non-technical. It might be confusing what to or not to bring along on your expedition. So, we have made this Ama Dablam Equipment list to make your task easier.
You can read further to know more about the Ama Dablam Equipment list:
Table of Contents
Climbing/ Technical gears
Bringing along the right technical gears is one of the most essential requirements in this equipment list. Also, these gears should be made from high-quality materials. Because you will be making the climb using these technical gears.
Mentioned below are the technical gears required for this expedition:
Ice Axe with Leash
Ice Axe is a general mountaineering tool that helps climbers in cutting footholds in the ice. One end of the head is pointed while the other one is flattened and the foot has a spike in it.
This tool can be used as a walking stick as well for ascend or descend in the routes. It comes in various sizes and finding the right size for you is quite important.
For people under 5’7” using a 60 cm tool is suitable, as for people from 5’7” to 6’1” using a 65 cm tool is suitable. And for people above 6’1” using a 70 cm tool is suitable.
Choosing a short tool is more preferable to the too long. As for the leash make sure it is designed for use on a glacier ax as well. As the technical leash is very short, heavy, and non-versatile.
Crampons are metal plates having spikes that attach to the boots to provide grip and stability while walking on ice. For this climb, climbers use the 12 points adjustable and steel frame based crampons.
These frames are flat, durable, and robust that can handle technical challenges. Steel crampons are best for general mountaineering. They are semi-rigid and fixed horizontally.
Rigid frame crampons are not recommended for technical ice climbing. You should also carry a repair kit, replacement part, and specific adjusting tools for your crampons.
Climbing Harness is a set of straps used to secure a person to an anchor point or a rope. When selecting a harness choose the one that fits your body and climbing clothes.
They must have an adjustable belay loop, gear loop, and leg loops. So, that you can overlay beneath it. The harness is light in weight and comfortable to wear. They are easy to pack as well.
Climbing Helmet is one of the important safety equipment that protects your head from falling objects. It also protects your head from the impact during a fall. The helmet should be light in weight and UIAA approved.
Carabiners are specialized metal loops used for connecting components. It is mostly used for rope activities. They are closed hooks used to secure the ropes while making a climb.
The carabiners are about the size of a palm and open from one side. They should have 4 lockings and 6 non-locking. Lighter the weight of the carabiners the better it is.
One of the carabiners should be pear-shaped while others can be D or modified D shaped. Non-locking carabiners can be wire gates.
Belay Device is also known as self-braking, a compact figure 8. This is a mechanical device used for controlling the rope to help the belayer catch and hold a fall with minimal effort. It is simple in design, lightweight, and easy to use.
Ascender is a climbing device that can be clipped to the rope to hold something in position. It acts as a foot or handhold for climbers. Most of the routes in this climb will be equipped with fixed lines. So, it is used for protection and as an aid for climbing.
You only need one ascender and it must have a handle in it. You should buy the device according to your dominant hand. If you are righty, buy a right-handed ascender and vice-versa.
Ascender sling helps you set up the ascender to the harness. The ascender sling should be 4 inches longer than standard sewn slings. You can also find short sewn and hitch it with the sewn runner to reach the length.
Sewn slings help you connect with the fixed lines when your ascender is not in use. You will be bringing 2 shoulder runner length sewn slings.
Trekking poles assist trekkers to provide rhythm and stability on rough terrain. 3 section poles are a great choice for the expedition. The poles should be adjustable, comfortable, and easy to store. Shock absorbers are not suggested.
Deciding what clothes to bring to the expedition is always a hard choice. When trekking in high places you have to carry warm clothes as well as keep the weight light.
You need to protect your face, and ears from sunburn and cold. So, for this purpose head clothing is quite necessary for the trip.
Hat or Cap
You can bring along a sun hat or baseball cap for this trip. They protect your face from getting sunburn and acts as a shield from the blazing sun. The visor protects the eyes from the sun.
Warm Hat is usually made from wool or synthetic fibers that provide heat in cold weather. The hat should be thin, warm, and comfortable that fits inside the climbing helmet. The warm hat covers your ear and protects them in cold climates.
Balaclava is a close-fitting headgear that covers your whole head and neck except for the face area. It is made of wool and keeps you warm in cold weather.
Bandana or Buff
You can bring along Bandana or Buff as well. Their purpose is to keep your head and neck wrapped up. They provide great protection from both sun and dust. You can use the buff as balaclava during cold weather.
Likewise, you need to protect your hands from frostbites so hand clothing is an essential gear.
You need to bring 2 lightweight liner gloves for this trip. They should be comfortable and fit perfectly inside the gloves. They are typically made from cotton and add an extra layer of protection underneath other pairs of gloves.
Windstopper gloves have ultra-thin protective windproof top layers. It keeps your hand warm and comfortably dry. They should be made from Windstopper fleece and have reinforced palms.
You will be bringing 1 pair of the Windstopper glove for this trek. These gloves are rarely taken off the hands.
You should bring big mountain gloves with full Gore-Tex. The warmer the liner is the better the gloves are.
Expedition Down Shell Mitts
Expedition Down Shell Mitts are extremely light in weight and compressible. They provide intense warmth and should be big to fit a synthetic glove.
During cold weather, standard gloves won’t work out so leather gloves come in handy. They use thermal material that retains the heat and keeps them warm for a longer period. These gloves should be abrasion resistant for the rock section.
Keeping the upper body warm requires layers of clothing from the base layer to the outer shell.
Silk weight also known as the base layer is the first clothing that touches your skin. They should be ultra-light, breathable, and able to wick the moisture from the body.
When choosing the base layer always look for ones that fit perfectly to your body. They should be tight to keep the cold out. Also, it should dry quickly and have odor retention. It is recommended not to choose cotton materials for the base layer.
This piece of clothing is worn on top of the base layer and under the outer shell. It is also called mid-layer and serves to keep you warm. They should be lightweight, quick-drying, and snug enough to fit the outer shells. You will be carrying 2 pairs for this expedition.
Soft Shell Jacket
Softshell jackets are stretchable, warm, and breathable. They are usually used as an insulating mid-layer during cold weather. This jacket is windproof and water-resistant as well. They provide protection from light snow and rain.
Hard Shell Jacket
These jackets are made from wind and waterproof materials and have hoods attached to them. They are primarily sketched to keep you dry in rain. They have durable and breathable properties.
Insulated Parka is about thigh-length and highly water-resistant. They have an attached hood to keep your head warm in cold climatic conditions. They are highly recommended in poor weather.
This parka is mostly worn in camps and rest breaks. This is the outer layering above all the other clothing.
Like the upper body, the lower body also has several layers to it.
When going on an expedition you won’t have enough time and water to wash your undies. So, you will only be changing them for the entire trip. Thus, carrying 3 to 4 pairs is compulsory. Also, when buying them always buy non-cotton material.
You will be wearing them under the other layers. So, when the heat begins to beat you down, you can wear them and walk on the trails. They should be lightweight, comfortable, and durable.
Lightweight bottoms provide warmth and are made of wool or synthetic materials. You should buy bottoms that absorb and remove sweat. And are comfortable to move as well.
Expedition weight bottoms
They should be fitted, comfortable, and sweat resistant. This baselayer bottom is suitable for a wide range of temperatures.
Climbing pants have various ranges of versatility suitable for any weather. In hot weather, you can wear them solo and in cold weather, you can pair them with the base layer.
Hard Shell Pant
You will be needing Hard Shell Pants made from water and windproof materials. This pant should have full-length side zippers for quick adjustment over boots and crampons.
Lightweight Trekking Pant
These are outer layer pants worn above other layers of clothing. Climbers wear them as they approach the base camp.
They are super thin and repel moisture from the feet. They help reduce the chances of blisters. They should be made from thin materials of wool, nylon, or capilene. You will be carrying about 3 pairs of these socks.
You will be carrying 3 pairs of the Trekking socks worn while heading to the base camp. They should be lightweight and comfortable.
You will be carrying 3 pairs of warm socks as well. Made from a wool synthetic blend.
Hiking boots should be light in weight, comfortable, and must give good support. You will be wearing them during day hikes and till the base camp. The toe box should have plenty of space.
Choose double boot at minimum having enough room to allow good circulation. They should be tight when worn above layers of socks. New boots should be worn as often as possible before the climb. Then you can determine whether they are comfortable and fit.
These glasses should have dark lenses with visibility light blocked. Minimum light should be reflected from below, above, or around the lens side. While selecting lenses look for ones with leather or plastic side shields or bug style wrap. Having ventilation is necessary and make sure to check for the retainer strap.
Goggles should have a snug fit with a light-colored lense. They should be 100% UV protected, anti-fog, and ventilation. They are only worn in extreme weather conditions.
The temperature gradually increases as you climb higher in elevation. The weather gets very cold and chilly in the upperparts. And there are no hotels available in these parts. So, you will be camping at designated stops for the night. Thus, bringing along the right sleeping gear is necessary.
A sleeping bag is a warm lined bag that keeps you warm and protects you from cold and cold weather injuries. You should buy a quality bag rated to around -10 to -20 ℉.
The bag should be compressible and light in weight. The total weight of the bag should be under 4 lbs. And it should be long enough that your foot does not press out the foot box.
The sleeping pad provides padding and thermal insulation when used in conjunction with a sleeping bag. The pads should provide warmth and comfort upon the sleeping surface. It should have 3 /4 length with 2.5 inches thickness and an extra valve stem.
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Bag and Backpacks
Expedition lasts about weeks long in the Himalayas. So, you might get confused about how many bags and backpacks to carry on your trip.
Large Duffel Bags
Duffel bags are large cloth bags made from synthetic fabric with sturdily sewn straps on the side. These bags are often used for carrying personal belongings on a trip.
You will be needing 2 large Duffel bags with locks and rugged zippers on this trip. They should be 120+ liter bags made from strong material that can withstand the abuse.
Small Duffel Bag
You will also be needing 1 small Duffel Bag with locks. This bag is for leaving behind spare clothes in the hotel. You might have brought extra stuff so you can keep them in this bag.
You will be needing an expedition backpack having an internal frame. It should be expandable from 65 to 75 liters. The backpack should have the capability of carrying overnight gears and more.
An empty pack should weigh under 4 lbs. Simple in design and light in weight. You should avoid buying panel opening packs having zipper closures.
A day pack is optional but it is better to carry one. They are useful for carrying snacks, tissues, and other stuff. Pack ranging from about 25 to 35 liters will be suitable for the trip.
- Copy of your passport
- 2 extra pp size photos
- Copy of flight itinerary
- 2 small tubes Sunscreen having SPF 40
- 2 stick lip cream with at least SPF 30
- Varieties of energy snacks to have along the way
- Extra lithium batteries for the headlamp
- 2 piece of water bottle having a wide mouth
- Water purification tablets to purify unknown water
- Insulated bottle covers to prevent the liquid from freezing
- 2 TSA approved luggage locks for the duffel bags
- Cameras for capturing the beautiful moments
- Power bank to charge your phone on the way
- 4 heavy-duty garbage bags
- Toiletries (Toothbrush, toothpaste, Soap, Shampoo, sanitizers, hand towels, toilet paper)
- First aid kit (aspirin, antibiotic ointment, waterproof tape, athletic tape, band-aids, and personal prescriptions, if you have any)