8 Jan 2021 Peak Climbing Nepal
Mountains are the real roof of the Earth. There are thousands of peaks around the world but the alpines of Nepal are like nowhere else. I am talking about the country that homes some of the highest roofs in the world. In other words, Nepal is a country of eight peaks whose heights are above 8000m. If you ever want to see the limit of the Earth’s land, you have to come to Nepal. Climb the tallest peak in the world, Mt Everest, and see how the view is from the ultimate roof.
That is how Nepal is the realm where every mountaineer has to ramble once. Mountaineering is the first thing that comes into the skull of most people when they are asked to say about Nepal. This country has been the favorite destination for mountaineering for a long time now. You get all kinds of mountains to climb here in Nepal. The easier ones, tougher ones, and the deadliest ones also. All in all, there are even more than 1310 mountains out of which 414 peaks are open for expeditions.
Let’s get to the point, we are here to talk about the two most popular mentions out of that list of peaks: Mt Everest and Mt Ama Dablam. One is as mentioned earlier, the tallest peak in the world, and another is one of the most beautiful and popular peaks out there to climb. It will be a full guide about both of the mountains where we will try to put these peaks head to head. That is why the article is named Ama Dablam vs Everest also.
This article is mainly for those who are confused over which one to climb, is it Everest or is it Ama Dablam? We have tried our best to draw a clear picture to differentiate these peaks. We are pretty sure that you’ll find this blog quite helpful at the end of the reading.
So let’s roll into it without any further delay!
Table of Contents
- Ama Dablam vs Everest
- Quick Facts
- Geographical Contrast
- Climbing Route
- Time Duration
- Altitude Gain
- Ama Dablam vs Everest – The difficulty level
- Food and Accommodation
- Ama Dablam vs Everest Expedition Cost
- Experience and Fitness Level
- Ama Dablam vs Everest – Best Time
- Ama Dablam vs Everest – Conclusion
Ama Dablam vs Everest
- Elevation: 8,848.86m(29,031.7ft) [Note: Recently remeasured with the latest methods and updated by the concerning countries. Earlier it was 8,848m.]
- Mountain Range: Mahalangur Himal of the Himalayas.
- Location: Solukhumbu District, Province No. 1, Nepal
- Difficulty: Technical and Serious Climbing.
- First ascent: Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa(29 May 1953)
Mt Ama Dablam
- Elevation: 6,812m(22,349ft).
- Mountain Range: Khumbu Himal of the Himalayas.
- Location: Solukhumbu District, Province No. 1, Nepal
- Difficulty: Challenging Adventure.
- First ascent: Mike Gil, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes(1961)
The roof of the world, Mt Everest, is the mountain from the Himalayas range of Nepal. With an enormous height of 8,848.86m, Everest is the ultimate mountain for every adventure seeker. The mountain is situated in the Mahalangur Himal section of the Himalayas on the very border of Nepal and China. It is believed that Mt Everest and the Himalayas took their place around 25 to 30 million years ago by tectonic action.
Everest is shaped like a triangle pyramid and has two ridges or faces: Northeast ridge(From Tibet) and Southeast ridge(From Nepal). The top of Everest is founded with a rock-hard snow layer that keeps changing every next season. Talking about its top’s atmosphere, you only get one-third of the oxygen level there compared to the sea level. Extremely cold temperatures, strong winds, and lack of oxygen make this a treacherous place on Earth.
Mt Ama Dablam
Mt Ama Dablam, one of the most desired mountains, is made of two words “Ama” and “Dablam” which means mother’s necklace. The peak was named so only because of its picturesque geographical structure. The height of the peak is not that high, it is only 6,812m(22,349ft). Being located in the heavenly Khumbu region of Nepal, the peak is one of the things to look there. This is the peak that makes every Everest Region trek special.
The peak was formed some 70 million years old due to the collision between Eurasian Plate and Indo-Australian. This is the third most popular peak in the Himalayan range. Along with the main peak(6,812m), Ama Dablam has a lower western peak(6,170m) also. The peak is also termed as the “Matterhorn of the Himalayas”, thanks to its steep faces, vertical walls, and soaring ridges. Alpinists from around the globe dream to climb the peak.
Mt Everest(Southeast Ridge)
The southeast ridge route starts after reaching Lukla, the entrance to the Everest region. It proceeds with a trek all the way to Everest Base Camp(5,380m). On the way, alpinists have to pass via settlements like Namche Bazaar, Dingboche, Tengboche, Gorak shep, and several more. The same trail is also known as the Everest Base Camp Trek, the world’s most popular trek. It normally takes around 6 to 8 days to reach the base camp. Then the climbers spend some days or weeks in Base Camp to acclimate to the altitudes. Then the route moves along the Khumbu Icefall, the riskiest icefall. Many fatalities have been recorded in this particular section.
Leaving Khumbu Ice Fall behind, the climbers reach Camp I(6,065m). Then the route continues and meets Camp II at an altitude of 6,500m. From the trail to the top goes through the Lhotse face all the way to Camp III. There is a need for fixed ropes in this section of the climb to reach Camp III(7,470m). Camp IV(7,920m) is only 500 meters away from Camp III on the South Col formed between Mt Everest and Lhotse. To reach Camp IV from III is a challenging stretch where the climbers have to use a rope for 100 meters.
From Camp IV or South Col, the death zone of Everest starts. And it is a climb of another 1000 meters from Camp IV which takes around 10 to 12 hours. The climbers have to reach The Balcony(8,400m) at first and then they have to do a tough climb to reach the South Summit(8,749m) of Everest. Then the route now goes on the Cornice Traverse, the knife-edged southeast ridge. The trail is extremely narrow around here and a single misstep can lead alpinists down to the southwest face for death.
Once the narrow traverse ends, a climber steps on the Hillary Step(8,790m). The rock wall of 12m was stepped for the first time by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary and hence got the name. After the Hillary step comes the summit point of Everest(8,848.86m). This is how the climbers have to follow the Southeast ridge route to Everest.
Mt Ama Dablam(Southwest Ridge)
The southwest ridge is the most widely used route for Mt Ama Dablam Expedition. It is the same route that was used by the first ascenders of the peak from the US and New Zealand teams. Ever since then, most of the climbers opt for this route over several other tracks. The route starts with a trek from Lukla and the trek ends upon reaching the base camp of Amadablam Base Camp. It follows the shadows of the Everest Base Camp Trek and gives enough views of the Ama Dablam peak.
As the expedition reaches Ama Dablam Base Camp(4,800m), it is time for the climb. The climb is sub-grouped into three to four sections. The route heads towards Camp I from Base camp now which is supposed to climb within 4 to 8 hours. Each day of climbing from Ama Dablam Base camp requires a climb of 4 to 8 hours. Camp II is around 300 meters above camp II and is climbable in 2 to 5 hours. After Camp II, it is the turn of Camp III to be ascended. For that, a climber has to do a challenging climb of 3 to 6 hours.
Camp III sits at an altitude of 6,277m and to reach there is an exciting and challenging move. From here, Summit point is a matter of 5 to 6 hours of climb. The expedition is a mixture of the hard and exciting part. The prior climbing experience will come to work here. The success will kiss your feet once you make it to the summit point of Ama Dablam(6,812m). The whole route in and out of the Ama Dablam is a long journey of more than 25 days.
It can shock you but the duration of the Everest Climb is around 66 days. The two months long expedition will start from Kathmandu. And after the flight to Lukla from Kathmandu, there will be a trek of around 9 days to reach Everest Base Camp. The summit stretch is the longest which can take 40 to 46 days to happen. Within that time interval, you’ll achieve the summit of Everest and return back to base camp. The climb will be done slowly with the required acclimatization. That is how it takes so long to do the Everest expedition.
Mt Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam is a 25 days long expedition that can last even longer. You should be unoccupied for at least one month for the climb. The journey starts from Kathmandu and ends at the same after the successful climb of Ama Dablam. You have to trek also to reach Ama Dablam Base Camp which takes around 6 to 7 days. And the climbing from the base camp takes around 10 to 12 days to climb and return back. Thus, all in all, Mt Ama Dablam is a month-long expedition.
Mt Everest gains the highest altitude than any other mountain in the world. The summit point’s altitude is 8,8848.86m(29,031.7ft). The second tallest peak in the world, K2, has a height of 8,611m(28,251m). Now you know how much altitude you will gain on Everest Expedition. The journey starts from Kathmandu which sits around an altitude of 1,400m only. But as you proceed further and further on the adventure, the altitudes will keep increasing.
The trek has to be done before the climb starts from Lukla(2,860m). Then it goes through Phakding(2,652m), Namche(3,440m), Thyangboche(3,867m), Dingboche(4,260m), Gorak Shep(5,180m) until Everest Base Camp(5,380m). Over a week or so, you will trek to see those changes in altitudes. However, there are acclimatization days as well to make the alpinists used to the new altitudes. Once it is time to climb, the altitude gain will be even more with every next step. Passing Camp I, II, III, IV from Everest Base Camp, you’ll gain the surreal altitude of 8,8848,86m. The altitude that a very few can only experience.
Mt Ama Dablam
On the other side, Ama Dablam is a peak that doesn’t gain altitudes as Everest. The last point of the climb, i.e summit point is 6,812m(22,349ft). But don’t take it as an easy climb due to its low altitude gain than the Everest expedition. The expedition of Ama Dablam also sees rapid changes in the altitudes over three weeks or so. Though it is not such a high peak to climb when compared to Mt Everest, the altitudes can still challenge anyone.
It all starts the way the Everest expedition starts, from Lukla(2,860m). Then the march proceeds through the Namche(3,440m), Dingboche(4,410m), Pheriche(4,371m) to Ama Dablam Base Camp(4,800m). There onwards, the climb will be done via Camp I, Camp II, and Camp III and finally to the summit point(6,812m). These altitudes will be gained in the matter of 25 days or so with proper acclimatization and rest.
Ama Dablam vs Everest – The difficulty level
Not unexpectedly, the Everest expedition is one of the hardest things to do in the world. To be at the top of the world will not come easily, you have to give all that you have for this expedition. Hard Work is never enough for this extremely challenging climb. This is a long journey of around 60 days through the deadliest track where not a single mistake is forgiven. The expedition involves high altitudes(8000m+), extreme temperature, low oxygen level, difficult technical sections, hard climb, and many more difficulties.
To be able to do this expedition, a climber has to be ready to receive any sort of difficulty and have to successfully deal with it. The section of Khumbu Icefall is one of the dangerous parts of the climb where anything can happen at any time. The higher you climb, the newer and tough conditions will come in the way. Climbers have to spend around two months under extreme weather conditions. This expedition tests all of your skills, calmness, endurance level, and experience.
Someone who has managed to reach the top of Everest has to breathe in the low oxygen level atmosphere. Plus, en route to the summit is too narrow that even an inch of a misstep can lead to death. It is sure that a climber will think of giving too many times on the Everest expedition. That is why a strong mentality is a must for this journey. Along with that, the alpinists should have a strong mountaineering experience and good climbing skills.
To settle, Everest Expedition is a difficult climb on the basis of different grounds. You have to have something special to climb this one.
Read more on: How hard is it to climb Mount Everest
Mt Ama Dablam
Mt Ama Dablam is popular as the “most desired peak” among the expert mountaineers around the world. It is not the peak for amateurs at all. The expedition of Ama Dablam requires expertise in climbing, that is for sure. However, it is an easier and shorter climb when compared to the legendary Everest Expedition. But don’t underestimate this climb yet.
Talking about its difficulty level, it is categorized as the adventurously difficult mountain. People with high mountaineering experience seem to do this climb over others. It is an expedition of around 25 or 30 days long which takes you from the altitude of 1,400m(Kathmandu) to the Ama Dablam’s top(6,856m). The climb starts from the base camp. Before that, you have to do a 7 to 8 days long trek from Lukla. The trek is equally demanding which demands around 6 to 8 hours of trek daily.
When it comes to the summit push of Ama Dablam peak, it can last upto two weeks to achieve the summit and make the return. This stretch involves technical sections where climbers have to show their skills and expertise. The steep and iced track, high altitude, and extreme weather are the major source of Ama Dablam’s difficulty. The climb equally demands calm and patience from the climbers. That is why this peak is suggested for the highly experienced climbers only.
Food and Accommodation
There is no much difference in food and accommodation in both of the expeditions. They both start from Lukla with a trek all the way to the base camp of their respective mountains. Over the trekking days, you’ll spend nights in the tea houses of the Everest region. Tea houses are the lodges run by the locals mostly to offer food and accommodation with basic facilities only. Rooms are on a twin-sharing basis most of the time and you have to share the rooms with your companions.
Likewise, you will not get lavish facilities in the teahouses. They can offer you good food, clean rooms and clothes to sleep in comfortable beds. For toilets, you have to use a shared toilet. You can use the internet in most of the tea houses of both of the expeditions.
But once you reach the base camps of the peaks, from there you are now supposed to settle in the camped tent during nights and eat the food made by the highly experienced chefs. The food will be healthy and enough to eat. And the accommodation will be individual box tents for climbing days. These tents are spacious, comfortable, warmer, and safer to use in high altitudes. The highly experienced team will guide you on everything related to accommodation and food in both of the expeditions. .
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Ama Dablam vs Everest Expedition Cost
Mt Everest Expedition Cost
The total cost for Mt Expedition by Peak Climbing Nepal is US$ 39,999.
Mt Ama Dablam Expedition Cost
The total cost for Mt Ama Dablam Expedition by Peak Climbing Nepal is US$ 7,555.
- The above costs include the hotel transfers of yours while arrival and departure.
- Cost of 4 nights stays in Kathmandu with a BB plan.
- Kathmandu Valley’s sightseeing with a professional guide on a private vehicle.
- All of the permits required for climbing Mt Ama Dablam like climbing permit, restricted area entry permit, and national park permit.
- All of the domestic flights involved during the expedition.
- All of the accommodation in tea houses in the low region and tented camping accommodation in the higher areas.
- Three-course meals a day throughout the expedition.
- A highly experienced trekking and climbing guide.
- All of the necessary members like a porter, kitchen staff, a guide for the expedition.
- All the essentials like a dining tent, store tent, table, etc for the expedition.
- Salary, food, accommodation, and insurance for all of the staff.
- Renting of all the required mountaineering gears.
- Emergency oxygen mask and regulator for the climb.
- Solar panels for charging and lighting in the high areas.
- Satellite phone for communication in the high elevations.
- Welcome and farewell dinner in Kathmandu.
- All of the TAX, VAT, and necessary paperwork.
- Personal climbing gear and equipment.
- Travel and climbing insurance.
- All kinds of personal expenses.
- Tips and donations for staff and others.
- Refundable garbage deposit.
Experience and Fitness Level
Mt Everest Expedition
You can easily guess what kind of experience and fitness level will be required to climb the highest peak in the world. It is needless to say that you will need a huge experience in climbing and a strong fitness level. You must be familiar with the peaks above 20,000ft. You should have extreme knowledge about using mountaineering gears. The extreme temperature and high altitude should not be a problem for you.
Plus, skills like ice climbing, rock climbing, and snow are equally required for the expedition. You should have a rigid endurance level. The load of 50 to 60 lbs should not bother you while ascending and descending. Above all, your cardiovascular system should be at its peak for this climb. The strong mentality is a plus point and can be very much helpful for the successful climb of Mt Everest.
To conclude, if you are thinking of climbing Mount Everest, you should be a highly experienced mountaineer who has all of the necessary skills, knowledge, physical condition, and mentality.
Mt Ama Dablam Expedition
Ama Dablam peak is not an easy peak to climb. The climber of this peak also needs some good climbing experience, knowledge, and skills to use mountaineering gears and firm health conditions. There are difficult technical sections on the expedition which will ask for an experienced climber. Plus, he/she has to be very much ready to endure anything on the expedition.
The expedition will test your calmness and patience level. Make sure you are good at those things. The prior climbing experience is a must for Ama Dablam climbers. The climbers should be okay with the ice climbing, extreme weather, and high altitudes.
Though the peak is not high as Everest, the peak is suggested to highly experienced climbers only. There are vertical walls, ice climbing, and technical sections to be done. If you are good at those things then you are the right person for this climb. If not, you can always start and learn until you are good enough to walk.
Ama Dablam vs Everest – Best Time
The best times for two of these expeditions is the same: Spring and Autumn season. Spring runs from March to May and Autumn lasts from September to October. Both seasons are good to go for climbing in Nepal. These are the times when the weather and mountains remain calm and still. There are very low chances of bad weather or extreme conditions. However, you can predict the exact weather of the high areas. But still Spring and Autumn are the safest times for climbing in Nepal. Either you climb Mt Everest or Mt Ama Dablam, the time suits both of the expeditions.
Yet, the experts believe that Spring is the best time for mountaineering in Nepal. Autumn, however, is also the best but not as Spring. On the other scene, the Monsoon and Winter season are the toughest times for mountaineering. It is hard to get permits for climbing also in the low seasons like Winter and Monsoon.
Confused over Ama Dablam vs Everest to climb? Here is the blog that gives a fair comparison of these two beauties.
Ama Dablam vs Everest – Conclusion
So, it was the best Ama Dablam vs Everest comparison we could do. We think that the blog gave you the answers to your question. To tell you again, Everest Climb is the hardest climb to do and so is the Ama Dablam. Yet, Ama Dablam is a bit easier and shorter than Everest. It is your call on which one to choose. If your requirements and experience meet any of the climbs, do the one that is right for you.
Or else, spend more time around other mountains before coming to kiss these iconic peaks. We, Peak Climbing Nepal, are an experienced team of mountaineering expedition organizers and guides. We are helping people to climb both Ama Dablam and Everest for some time now and have successful records. If you feel like climbing any of these peaks or other peaks, do remember us for quality service.