8 Sep 2021 Prakash Devkota
Baruntse (7129m) is a beautiful mountain located in the Everest Mahalangur region. Baruntse is an asymmetrical mountain peak with substantial snow placed between Everest and Makalu. It has four ridges and four summits which makes it unique among other Himalayan mountains.
Barun Glacier bounds the mountain to the east, which then flows north-south from Cho. On the northwest side, there is the majestic Imja glacier. Similarly, there is the Hinku glacier on the southeast boundary. The Baruntse mountain has three prominent ridges located between these glaciers.
Moreover, they form an upturned ‘Y’ from Cho Polu (6695m) in the north ahead of the Humni La. Baruntse remains surrounded by other Himalayan mountains, including Mt. Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, and the Mera Peak. The awe-inspiring views of the entire Himalayan vista are stunning from summit peak.
The first ascent of Baruntse was on 30 May 1954 by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow. They were part of the famous New Zealand Expedition team. The expedition was through the South-East Ridge, which has remained popular among climbers since then. Moreover, the trekking route to arrive at the base camp of Baruntse passes through the remote wilderness.
The semi-technical ascent is an ideal practice ground for the further climb of Mt Everest and other 8000m mountains. However, this expedition comes with various challenges as well. The Baruntse climbing difficulty includes unpredictable weather conditions, altitude sickness, technical section, continuous ascend, etc.
Furthermore, the ascent route passes through steep slopes, icefall, and rugged sections. Some sections in this mountain require extensive use of fixed ropes and other mountaineering gears. Previous peak climbing experience in high altitude is essential for this peak climbing adventure.
Besides that, you also need a basic fitness level and solid mental strength to ascend the summit successfully. You must consider all the aspects before taking on this incredible mountain. Read further for the complete information on Baruntse climbing difficulty and other information in detail.
What Makes Climbing Baruntse Difficult?
Weather conditions and temperature
The Everest region’s weather remains highly unpredictable. The temperature in the area fluctuates significantly depending upon the season. The peak climbing season of Autumn (September-October) and Spring (April-May) are the best time for this adventure.
Moderate temperatures range from 0-15 degrees in these seasons. In comparison, temperatures drop significantly, ranging from -5 to -10 degrees during the night. However, temperatures can fall anytime, and warm sunny days can turn dark overcast conditions within hours.
Besides that, the harsh sun gets reflected from the silver mountains causing discomfort for climbers. The powerful winds that blow in the region can cause difficulty in summit climbing as well. Therefore, you need to check for weather forecasts during your Baruntse summit climb.
Location of the mountain
The Baruntse mountain remains in the Everest Mahalangur Himalayan region. We need to trek for many days to arrive at the base of the peak passing through rugged trails. After flying from Kathmandu to Lukla, we will start your trek on an adventurous route.
The tour continues providing you with majestic views of the snow-capped mountains of the region. Trekkers will also pass through various settlements of the area before arriving at the base camp. There you will set up different high camps for summit ascent. Hence, this location is one of the major Baruntse climbing difficulty factors.
Extreme Altitude
The Baruntse mountain lies at an altitude of above 7000m, which makes it highly challenging. Trek in the region moves above an altitude of above 4000m most of the time. During the expedition, you will experience less air pressure in the atmosphere and minimal oxygen levels. This extreme altitude condition leads to various challenges for climbers and trekkers.
Altitude sickness is the most common problem among climbers and trekkers in the Everest region. Hence, every climber must acclimatize well during their expedition. The climbers will acclimatize at Namche Bazaar (3,500m) and then other settlements along these trails. After arriving at Baruntse base camp, you will acclimatize for several days before climbing the mountain peak.
If you want, you can also take preventive measures like Diamox tablets that help to prevent altitude sickness. Besides that, you should also hydrate regularly to tackle altitude sickness. Acclimatization is also an opportunity for you to travel around. You will hike for some time, even on acclimatization days.
If you get symptoms of altitude sickness, you should stop ascending and descend to lower altitudes. Altitude sickness can get quite severe if not treated on time and even lead to fatalities.
Technical climbing route
The Baruntse southeast Ridge is generally considered a straightforward climb. Climbers have to cross steep sections of ice at 50° in this route full of snow trails. There is a prominent ice cliff along the way at around 7,000 meters. Climbers need to climb to the top of the ocean cliff and then cross it.
There are various cornice sections in the upper summit ridge. However, you can remain assured of your safety as there are fewer risks of avalanches. The team leaders and guides used fixed ropes for your protection. Besides that, there are cornices that you need to traverse between the high camps and the Baruntse summit. A few kilometers ahead of the glacier, there is an entrance leading to East Col.
Then camp gets set up just below the pass, from where it’s ideal for crossing East Col (6,146 meters). Finally, reach a sizable snowy plateau located on the Lower Barun Glacier. This allows you to achieve the South-East Ridge and is an ideal Advanced Base Camp (ABC).
Climbers can get through the Lower Barun Glacier, but there is a risk of an icefall at the glacier. Hence it has become impassable of sorts in recent years. So one more camp gets placed higher on the mountain, at around 6,500 meters. The summit is then climbed through this high camp. Hence, these technical routes add to the Baruntse Climbing difficulty level.
Accommodation
Tea houses and tents are standard accommodation in these routes to Baruntse. You will stay in teahouses with basic facilities till you arrive at the base camp. After arriving at the base camp, you will set up various tented camps.
You will also share your rooms with fellow trekkers in the tea houses. The facilities in these remote regions are not fancy by any means. Hence, you should compromise with these facilities. You can carry a mattress and sleeping bag while camping in these trails.
Frostbite
This Himalayan region has low temperatures that can reach around – 20 degrees. Hence, frostbites are pretty standard in the area and are a significant difficulty for climbers. Frostbite is generally caused when you keep your skin out in the cold for a long time. It causes underlying tissues in your skin to freeze.
Frostbite is common in fingers, nose, toes, ears, etc. hence, you need to cover your skin with proper clothing. Tingling, numbness, change in skin color, stiffness in muscles and joints, and others are some symptoms of frostbite.
Many trekkers have to abandon their expedition as they lose motion in their hands and toes. Weather remains unpredictable in the mountains. You can experience a range in temperatures from 30 degrees to -15 degrees. Therefore, frostbite is a serious threat and increases Baruntse climbing difficulty.
Meals and water
Meals and water are other major difficulties during the climb of this Baruntse expedition. As we will be staying in camp before the summit for several days, we have to adjust with the basic foods.
You should drink around 4-6 liters of water as you need to remain hydrated along these trails. Your body will dry up quicker at a higher elevation as you will use up more energy. But, do not worry, our team will bring enough food and water for the trip.
The air pressure is low in these high-altitude areas. Your body needs a higher amount of water to create more red blood cells to carry oxygen. So you should eat protein-rich foods. You will get served the typical Nepalese staple food of “Dal Bhat” along with these teahouses. Taking protein bars, energy bars will help you get instant energy during your journey.
Gear and Equipment
Climbing Baruntse peak requires proper mountaineering equipment and trekking gear. You should pack light as possible but include all the necessary items. Some of the things needed in your peak climbing adventure are as follows:
Clothing
- Hiking boot
- Woolen scarf
- Trekking jackets and pants
- Sock liners
- Pair of gloves
- Thermal clothes
- Wind jackets
- Warm socks
Mountaineering gear
- Crampons
- Ascending device
- Climbing boots
- Descending device
- Tape sling
- Quality prusik loop
- Ice ax with a strap
- Carabiners (lockable + non-locking)
How To Tackle Baruntse Climbing Difficulty?
Get extensive training
The Baruntse expedition requires extensive pre-climbing training. These training exercises must include physical training, cardiovascular or aerobic activities, and proper mental preparation.
Moreover, These training exercises should start at least 2-3 months before your climb. An adequate training will help you gain a perfect fitness level and reduce Baruntse climbing difficulty. It will also help you keep a positive attitude, which is essential for success in the mountains.
Add extra days to the itinerary.
Extra days in your itinerary are essential as there are unpredictable circumstances in high-altitude regions. Unfavorable weather conditions might lead to delays, and you require extra days to complete your journey. Besides that, you can also complete your acclimatization correctly in these additional days.
Acclimatize at regular intervals
Acclimatization is an essential part of the Baruntse climbing adventure. This outstanding mountain peak climbing adventure takes you through some of the most challenging terrains. Therefore, you should take regular breaks so that you can complete your peak climbing with ease. Your professional guide will help you tackle these by setting up acclimatization points along this trail.
Acclimatization is also essential when you set up camps during your summit ascent of Baruntse peak. You should not gain more than 300m or 1000ft in elevation on a specific trekking day. Hence, you should acclimate adequately before you make your way to the mountain.
Ensure proper gear and equipment
The proper gear and equipment for mountain climbs are essential as well. You can get this equipment from Thamel in Kathmandu. Besides that, you can also rent them for the duration of your peak climbing adventure.
The climbing gears must remain comfortable and fit for your size. Trekking boots, figure 8 ascenders, crampons, jumars, belay devices, and others are some gear required. These tools will significantly reduce the Baruntse climbing difficulty.
Avoid off-seasons
There are off-seasons in this trail that are unfavorable for peak climbing. Therefore, avoid them to get the best experience of Baruntse climbing. There are harsh weather conditions like heavy rain, chilly winds, and extreme temperatures around (-40C) in the summit. This makes this peak climbing quite challenging.
The months between December and Mid-February are immensely challenging. The months from September to November (Autumn) and March to May (Spring) are ideal for climbing. Hence, you should choose these seasons for your adventure in the high mountains.
Remain calm and positive
Climbers should remain calm and positive while climbing Baruntse. A mental attitude is one of the most critical aspects of this peak climbing adventure. Even if you train hard, you will not be successful in your climb if you do not remain positive. Your positive attitude, determination, and perseverance will keep you on track in these routes of Baruntse.
Best Time for Baruntse Expedition
Baruntse expedition is ideal in the peak season of Spring and Autumn. These seasons are ideal as they reduce Baruntse climbing difficulty significantly. Spring is a perfect time for mountain climbing adventures as there is stable weather. Wildlife remains active and comes out of their hibernation in these seasons as well.
Snow deposits on the mountain are ideal for peak climbing. The spring season is generally considered best for the Baruntse expedition. This factor is because there are good snow conditions, and it is pretty safe to climb the mountain.
Autumn is also suitable for peak climbing, with decent weather, less precipitation, and a dry climate. This post-monsoon period sees almost no rainfall in these regions. Besides that, there is a festive atmosphere in the area, and you can celebrate these festivities with the locals.
Final Say
Baruntse expedition is a popular adventure in the Everest region. This incredible mountain peak is unique in its structure and climbing routes. Baruntse is 7000 m mountains and is an ideal practice ground for climbing Mt. Everest. Moreover, the trek to the base camp is quite challenging as well.
The extended tour will help you get accustomed to the high-altitude region. Furthermore, it will ensure your success in ascending the summit. The altitude is a challenging aspect of this trek as you will climb a 7000m mountain. This article covers all aspects of Baruntse climbing difficulty in detail. Contact us for additional information regarding other Himalayan adventures. Happy climbing!
Prakash Devkota
Managing Director and Team Leader
Mr. Prakash Chandra Devkota is an established name in the Tourism Sector in Nepal. He is a focused individual gifted with a brilliant mind. He is also hugely dedicated to social work. Born in the Gorkha district, a beautiful hilly region of Nepal, he first entered the tourism industry as a guide in 1997. He has gained extensive experience in almost all the trekking and climbing routes like Mera, Island, Lobuche and, Ama Dablam, etc.
He registered Nepal Guides Treks & Expedition in 2009 AD. Due to his passion for adventure and efforts to provide quality personalized service to his clients, he has established himself as a successful tourism entrepreneur. He has dedicated most of his time working diligently to elevate the tourism industry and collected more than 15 years of experience in organizing trekking and expeditions in Nepal, Bhutan, and India. He believes in the power of the tourism industry and the employment opportunities that can be created through it. He constantly looks for innovative ways to run the company.
Mr. Devkota has always been an avid practitioner of eco-friendly tourism and has always promoted environmental conservation throughout his career. He motivates his staff to embrace eco-friendly tourism through responsible tourism practices. He believes promoting eco-tourism will preserve natural resources and positively impact the environment.
