10 Apr 2020 Peak Climbing Nepal
Island Peak(6,189m), also known as Imja Tse, is a beautiful mountain in the Everest region. The top of this peak seems like an island if viewed from far; for this reason, it is named as Island Peak. Situated perfectly amidst two giant mountains, i.e., Ama Dablam(6,812m) and Lhotse(8,516m), this peak is popular among both amateur and professional climbers.
The Island Peak journey runs through many iconic settlements, lush forests, and green trails before reaching the base camp. And from the base camp, it’s all rugged trails and mountain views from all the ways. The top of Island peak provides an awe-inspiring panoramic view of the entire Everest region mountains. The whole Everest region mountains mean the Mt Everest, Mt Lhotse, Mt Cho Oyu, Mt Makalu, Mt Ama Dablam, Mt Nuptse, and several others.
Island Peak expedition is a different adventure in each of the seasons. The climbing happening during Spring is not identical with the Autumn. And this contrast in experience is due to the climate and weather of each season. Each of the four seasons, i.e Spring, Autumn, Summer, and Winter have different climatic attributes.
Among these four seasons, the Autumn and Spring are considered as the best time to climb Island Peak. Whereas, the Summer/Monsoon and Winter season are less-favored seasons for the Island Peak.
To find out why Autumn and Spring are the best time to climb Island Peak and why not are Winter and Summer? Read this full article, Each of the seasons at Island Peak is described below:
Peak seasons to Climb Island Peak
Climbing the Island Peak is possible throughout the year except for the Monsoon season(June, July, and August). The Spring and Autumn are considered as the peak season for trekking and climbing in Nepal. The trekking routes of Nepal are crowded with lots of trekkers and mountaineers during the peak seasons.
Likewise, the routes of Island peak are also packed during Autumn and Spring season. The trail of Island peak is shared with the Everest Base Camp trek trail.
During peak seasons, you will walk along with either Everest Base Camp trekkers or Mt Everest climbers. You will get to share experience and introductions with a lot of adventurers during the Autumn and Spring season. Let’s discuss each of the best seasons in the following headings:
Autumn Season(September, October, November)
Autumn is the best time to climb Island peak. September, October, November are the months of the Autumn season, which are the peak times to trek or climb in Nepal. The trails are busy during these months.
September is the first month of the Autumn season that comes just after the departure of Monsoon season. So, the early-September sees some rainfalls as the monsoon is on the brink of farewell. But the raindrops of the Monsoon season washes all the dust from the terrains and vegetation.
There is greenery everywhere during the Autumn season. The streams, waterfalls, rivers, ponds, and lakes get refilled after the Monsoon season. So, it is the perfect time to view the water glory of Nepal.
The ideal temperature is the main perk of Autumn. The average temperature of areas above 4000m during Autumn months is around 15°C, which is the ultimate temperature for trekking. Similarly, the maximum temperature can range up to 20°C on sunny days. The morning and night hours are the coldest throughout the day, with a minimum temperature of -10°C. The weather of the summit, i.e., Island Peak(6,189m), is quite unpredictable, which mostly sits below the freezing level.
Moreover, the air is also so fresh and chilly during the Autumn. From mid-September, it is the time of clear skies and uninterrupted mountain views. The view from every angle of everything seems so beautiful. The Autumn season only lacks blossoming flowers, but other things are just perfect. You’ll find stable, transparent, and dry weather from mid-September till the late-November. This is why the Autumn season is favored by most of the trekkers and climbers
Why Island Peak in the Autumn season?
- To experience Ideal temperature for trekking and climbing
- To enjoy the clear visibility of landscapes and mountains
- To explore festival season in Nepal
- To sight fresh and dust-free terrain views
- To observe the speedy and contained water resources of Nepal
Spring Season(March, April, May)
Spring is another peak season to do Island peak climbing. March, April, and May are the months of Spring that welcomes thousands of trekkers and climbers to Nepal. Spring is an unbeatable period for any adventure. And these are the months when Nepal’s trekking trails are most busy.
Spring is the season of blossoming flowers and green vegetation. The trails to the Island peak are beautifully decorated with diverse and colorful flowers and plants. Weather and temperature during Spring are stable and friendly for trekking and climbing. The dry and bright weather provides clear visibility of surroundings. The terrain view is just wow during Spring with wide-spreading Rhododendron and Oak trees.
The days of Spring months are warm and bearable throughout the season. Daily, the sunshine remains for 9 hours during the day. Higher regions, i.e., above 4000m, are colder with an average temperature of 17°C during the daytime. Similarly, the maximum temperature is around 25°C on sunny days, and the minimum temperature is during the morning and night times, i.e., -15°C. The temperature of the Island peak summit always stays under the freezing level.
The half of Island peak trail lies in the classical route of Everest Base Camp Trek. During the Spring season, you will see many trekkers and climbers on the trails. Thousands of hikers and mountaineers get attracted by the colourful and stable environment of the Spring season.
Why Island Peak in the Spring season?
- To walk through colourful flower and green trails
- To trek and climb in clear, stable and dry weather
- To enjoy the clear visibility of mountains and terrains
- To experience Nepal’s beauty like never before
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Off-seasons to climb Island Peak [Not Recommended]
Winter and Monsoon are the two off and less picked seasons for trekking and climbing in Nepal. Winter is the coldest season of all, and Monsoon is the rainy season. This is why most of the trekkers and climbers don’t pick these seasons for their adventures in Nepal.
Yes, indeed, these seasons are not as easy as the peak seasons. With better preparations and right gears, the Island Peak Climb is possible during off-seasons, but not recommended. Let’s go through each of these seasons to know more about them:
Winter Season(December, January, February)
Winter means the season of snowfall and freezing temperatures. December, January, and February are the months of the Winter season in Nepal. With the arrival of the Winter season, the warmth of the Island peak area starts to fall. The summit of Island peak gets speedy wind during the Winter season, and temperature is also very cold.
The temperature during the Winter season is chilly and freezing. The lower areas are a bit warmer than the higher regions. During the Winter season, the lower regions(Below 4000m) have a minimum temperature of -5°C and a maximum temperature of around 12°C.
Similarly, the higher regions, i.e., above 4000m, have a minimum temperature around -15°C and maximum temperature near to 8°C. The temperature of the areas above 6000m is quite unpredictable. The summit temperature is even colder than the lower regions where the cold wind always blows.
Island peak climbing during the Winter season is a complicated deal to complete. The professional climbers are only suggested for Island peak during Winter. Winter increases the difficulty level of the Island peak. With the right equipment and preparation, it is possible to climb Island peak. The snowy trails of Winter can be a new adventure for you.
The Island trails are peaceful and less crowded during Winter. It is a different experience than the peak seasons like Autumn and Spring. The first few weeks of December are the most favourable trekking time of Winter. You will not get disturbed by crowded trails; you will just focus on the Island peak summit.
What to expect in Winter season?
- To enjoy the snow experience in the Himalayas
- To celebrate New Year and Christmas celebration in highlands
- To get offers and discounts on flight tickets, accommodations, foods and tour packages
- To enjoy the snowy views of the terrains and mountains
- To walk on peaceful and less crowded trailssav
Monsoon season(June, July, August)
Throughout June, July, and August, the rain clouds revolve around the atmosphere of Nepal. Monsoon season is also known as the Summer season is the season of periodic rainfalls. It is the time of hot and humid temperatures as well. The sky is covered by the rain clouds that obstruct mountain views. But the picture after the rainfall is observable with clear views of mountains and washed terrains.
The temperature during the monsoon is hot and humid before rainfall and a bit cold after the rain. The lower area’s(under 4000m) minimum temperature is around 2°C, and the maximum temperature is near 18°C. Similarly, the higher area’s(above 4000m) minimum temperature is around -2°C, and the maximum temperature is near 10°C. The lower regions get the most rainfall, whereas the higher areas get very few rains. Despite knowing these facts, people don’t like to trek or climb during monsoon season.
Mid-monsoon is not the best time to climb Island peak. Because the mid monsoon period, i.e July month, is the peak time of rainfall. And due to the rain, the trails are muddy, slippery to trek on.
However, the first few weeks of June are perfect for trekking and climbing. Early-June does not receive rainfall and trails are also peaceful. So, if you are opting for Monsoon season then the early-June is an ideal time. Carry enough and appropriate rain gears while trekking and climbing in Monsoon.
What to expect in Monsoon season?
- To walk on peaceful trekking trails
- To choose from ample food and accommodation options
- To get discounts and offers in packages, flights, food, and accommodation
- To add thrill, adventure and new experience
Equipment list for Island Peak climbing
Island Peak, i.e. Imja Tse is one of the highest altitude trekking peaks. It is a combination of high altitude trekking and climbing. So, other than high altitude trekking gears you will be needing some mountaineering gears. The mountaineering gear and trekking checklist are as below:
Special Mountaineering Checklist
- Accessory cord(30feet)
- Ice Axe
- Waist Leash
- Climbing Harness with two Locking Carabiners
- Standard Carabiners
- Belay Device
- Trekking poles
- Double Boots
- Insulated Shell Gloves
- Expedition Mittens
- Climbing Helmet
Basic Equipment Checklist
- Waterproof Shell Jacket
- Waterproof Shell Pant
- Down Vest and Jacket
- Mid-weight Insulated Jacket
- Lightweight Fleece Top
- Wind shirt
- Softshell Climbing Pant
- Glacier Shirt
- Base Layer Top and Leggings (2 sets)
- Casual Trekking Clothes
- Warm Hat
- Sun Hat
- Sunglasses (UV Protection)
- Ski Goggles
- Head Scarf
- Neck Gaiter
- Liner Gloves (2 pair)
- Fleece Gloves
- Mountaineering Gloves
- Lightweight Inner Socks(3-5 pairs)
- Light Weight Shoes/Sandal
- Trekking Boots
- 6000m Mountaineering Boots
- Snow gaiters
How difficult is the Island peak Nepal climbing?
Island Peak climbing is not an easy task at all. It is a long and strenuous journey to the top of Island Peak(6,189m). You’ll attain some high altitudes during this expedition that you are not used to. You cannot go straight up towards the peak without rest and acclimatization days. Enough acclimatization days are required to make you used to a new altitude and to avoid altitude sickness.
On a regular itinerary of fourteen days, you have to walk for 4 to 6 hours per day with 10 to 15 kg of the bag in back. The trails are mostly bumpy with regular uphills and downhills. It is difficult for an amateur to make regular ascends and descends. Crossing all the hurdles, you’ll reach Base camp of Island Peak. The journey ahead from base camp is level up tricky. You have to trek through and over rough and rugged terrains at heights of over 5000m.
The danger of altitude sickness is always around the head during Island peak climb. Upon your arrival at the glacier level of Island peak, it is difficult to walk on, so you have to wear crampons. The most challenging part of Island peak climb is at the foot of Island peak’s headwall.
The climb is too steep with shallow levels of air in the surrounding which also adds some in Island Peak Difficulty. However, there are fixed lines on the ascending route which makes it easy to climb. After the successful completion of the head wall the next climb is towards the summit ridge. The route from summit ridge to the top of Island peak is a very easy climb. And here you are at the top of Island peak(6,189m), celebrate the achievement and view from the top.
Tips for Island Peak climbing
Get familiar with Camping:
Island peak journey is trekking plus climbing, get familiar with this fact. There are no tea houses or lodges above the Island Peak base camp. You have to stay, eat and sleep in campsites from the base camp. And camping in higher areas like Island peak is difficult due to the cold temperature. Hence, you have to be mentally prepared for such situations. You have to learn how to sustain yourself in such harsh conditions.
Do right Backpacking
Right backpacking is the most important thing to consider during any trekking and climbing. And for expeditions like Island peak, it is the vital thing to check. Firstly, you have to shortlist all the essentials clothes, gears and equipment. You can review our full guide of Backpacking for Island peak to know what to pack for Island peak. Island peak journey involves trekking and climbing in high altitudes. So, you will need some suitable clothing to avoid the cold and some good mountaineering gears to climb the Island peak.
Pick the best time to climb Island peak
Island peak is possible throughout the year. The only thing is that sometimes it is a bit easy and sometimes it is a bit hard. So, you have to pick the right time for Island peak expedition.
Until reading this, you have surely known the best time to climb Island Peak, i.e. Autumn and Spring. Into that, you have to pick the right month to climb also. Because even in the Autumn season there are some days when the temperature and conditions are not in favor. To avoid this, you have to check the weather data and console some experienced guides to decide on which time to embark.
Do physical training
Island Peak Nepal is a strenuous journey. You have to do long walks on a regular basis on scattered hills. The trails of Island peak involve some serious ascends and descends. And from the base camp of Island peak Nepal, it is a difficult climb over rugged and snowy trails. Hence, you need some good physical fitness to complete this Island Peak trek. If you have strong fitness and prior trekking or climbing experiences, you are good for this trip. If not then, you have to engage in some physical training to boost your fitness level. The training can be strenuous hiking, gym workouts, cardio training, swimming, cycling etc.
Join basic Mountaineering course
If Island Peak is your very first climbing expedition then you will need to complete a basic Mountaineering course. Without basic mountaineering skills, the Island peak climbing is going to be difficult for you. So, to make you skillful for climbing there are some basic climbing courses out there. The basic course will teach you all the basic skills required to use mountaineering gears like crampons, ice axe, harness etc.
Hire experienced guide and porters
Having an experienced team of guides and porters is worthwhile in difficult treks or mountain climb. They can lead you in the right direction in any difficult and unexpected situations. The experience of guides guarantees your safety in the trek. And, the porters are also very handy in expeditions like Island Peak. They will carry your heavy bags, camping equipment, foods and drinks.
Include enough acclimatization day
Altitude sickness is real and you have to prepare to avoid it. Island peak expedition without enough acclimatization days is too risky as you can get caught by altitude sickness. You have to climb a mountain to reach the surreal altitude of 6,189m. Before your ascend, you have to get used to the altitude gain to avoid altitude sickness. That is why there are 2 to 3 days of acclimatization day on any peak climbing itinerary. Hence, acclimatize your body with the foreign altitude before heading up towards Island peak.
Similar trips you may like:
- Lobuche and Island Peak Climbing Nepal
- Mera and Island Peak Climbing
- Ama Dablam Expedition and Island Peak Climbing
Island Peak climbing is an amazing peak adventure in Nepal. You will enjoy every bit, every part and every second of this beautiful and thrilling adventure. After the successful climb of Island peak, you will have so many things to share with your closed ones. This adventure to the Island peak will remain as a historic moment of your life.
The best time to climb Island peak is Autumn and Spring season. These seasons have very ideal climate and weather for Island peak climbing. The weather is stable with clear visibility of the views. But, this expedition is possible during the Winter and Monsoon season as well. These seasons have dramatic kinds of weather. But, with proper training, equipment and precautions, the Island peak is doable all around the year.
We hope that this article has helped you somehow to know about the best time to climb Island Peak.
If you have made up your mind to climb Island Peak, we are here to provide you with the best package, book it here, Island Peak Climbing. You can also remember us for other peak climbings as well, we guarantee you a better service from our side
Contact us for any kind of queries, doubts related to Island Peak. You can also remember us for other peak climbings as well, we are the best service provider in Nepal.