11 Jun 2021 Peak Climbing Nepal
Nepal is a Himalayan nation with incredible geographical landscapes. It ranges from the high Himalayas to the flatlands of Terai. With majestic China and India in all directions, Nepal is entirely landlocked. Mt. Everest (8,848.86 m) is the country’s crown jewel as it is the highest mountain in the world.
Moreover, there are other 8000m Himalayan mountain peaks in the country. The number of 7,000 meters above mountain peaks is around 80. Hundreds of climbers make their way to these mountains and their foothills for expedition and trekking adventures. Besides, the Himalayas also produce pristine glaciers, glacial lakes, and fast-flowing rapids.
Similarly, the natural biodiversity of the region with rich wildlife and vegetation enchant travelers worldwide. Besides, the beautiful Sherpa settlement along the foothills of the Himalayas is another attraction. There are incredible gorges, vast valleys, alpine forests, green meadows, and others in this region.
Read on to know more about the top 10 highest mountains in Nepal and other related information.
Top 10 Highest Mountain in Nepal
Elevation: 8,848.86 m (29,029 ft)
Range: Mahalangur Himalayan Mountain Range
First ascent: May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa
Check: Everest Expedition
Mount Everest, with an elevation of 8848.86m, is the tallest mountain peak in the world. This mountain peak is one of the most challenging adventures for mountaineers worldwide. Located in the extensive Mahalangur Himalayan range in the Khumbu region, Mt. Everest is also known as “Sagarmatha” in Nepali and “Chomolungma” in the Tibetan language.
Mt Everest is a major attraction for tourists in Nepal. The beautiful trekking adventure in the region has also contributed to the tourism boom in the country. The summit of Mount Everest is generally reached through various routes, including south col from Nepal. “Sagarmatha” was first accented by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary on May 29, 1953.
Mount Everest massif also includes other snow-capped mountains, including the Lhotse peak, Nuptse Himal, Changtse, etc. The summit of Mt Everest has hurricane-force winds that pose a threat to mountaineers. Therefore, a proper training regime is essential to complete this incredible expedition.
The trails of this EBC trek pass through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche Monastery, Kalapatthar viewpoint, Sagarmatha National Park, and others. The Sherpa ethnic community and their settlements provide climbers with a unique cultural experience. A professional guide will provide you with local insights into the Khumbu region and its Buddhist heritage.
Elevation: 8,586 m (28,169 ft)
Range: Northern Kanchenjunga Himalayan mountain range
First ascent: May 25, 1995, Gorge Band and Joe Brown
Kanchenjunga is another beautiful mountain located in the southeast direction of Mount Everest. The incredible mountain is just 125 kilometers away from Everest. This mountain is the second-highest mountain in Nepal and the third in the world. There are five spectacular mountain peaks in the region known as the “five treasures of the snow.”
The Kanchenjunga mountain is also quite sacred to Nepalese people. George Band and Joe Brown were the first ascenders of this beautiful mountain on May 25, 1995, as a part British expedition team. The mountain range means “five repositories of great snow” in Tibetan.
The Limbu people revere the region as a land of omnipotent Goddess Yuma Samman. The Kangchenjunga demon is also another myth in this region. The Kanchenjunga region is also home to the deity of Dzönga. Locals believe there are five hidden treasures in the Kanchenjunga mountain slopes, which are only revealed when the world is in grave peril. The five treasures of the snow include salt, sacred scriptures, gold, invincible armor, turquoise, and medicine.
The Kanchenjunga massif looks like a white wall hanging from the sky from Antu Dada in Ilam. There are four climbing routes of Kanchenjunga. Among them, three lie in Nepal and one in India. The Kanchenjunga Conservation Area works in the conservation of diverse natural wildlife. The trekkers also have an off-the-beaten experience in these trails.
Elevation: 8,516 m (27,940 ft)
Range: Mahalangur Himalayan mountain range and the Everest massif
First ascent: May 18, 1956, Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger
Lhotse in Mount Everest massif is the third highest mountain in Nepal. There are three peaks of Lhotse in which “the South Peak” lies in Tibet. The Lhotse main summit is 8,516 m, Lhotse Shar is 8,383 m, and the Lhotse East is 8,414 m. The Swiss mountaineering and Expedition team first ascended the mountain in 1956.
The Lhotse Face has a blue glacial ice wall. There is a glacier-formed by Lhotse Shar that adjoins the Imja Glacier. Everest’s South Col route is also used for Lhotse that reaches the Yellow Band.
The Yellow Band then separates passages of these mountains as the Everest expedition then takes over the Geneva Spur. The Lhotse route then takes right further up the Lhotse face. The narrow “Reiss couloir” is a pretty challenging section in this route of the Lhotse’s central peak.
Elevation: 8,481 m (27,838 ft)
Range: Makalu Mahalangur Himalayan mountain range
First ascent: May 15, 1955, Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy
Check: Makalu Expedition
Mount Makalu in the Everest region is the fifth highest mountain in the world and the fourth highest mountain in Nepal. The mountain lies in the southeast part of Mount Everest. The four-sided pyramid mountain filled with snow and ice remains located at the border of Nepal and China.
The name of this mountain is a derivation from the Sanskrit word “Maha Kala,” which denotes Hindu God Shiva and means “great black.” The 14 miles or 22 kilometers long stretch of this mountain gets known as ‘Kumba Karna,’ or ‘the great sleeping giant. The Kangchungtse and the Chomo Lonzo are two subsidiaries of this incredible mountain.
Chomo Lonzo is a mountain peak two miles away from the Makalu summit and in the Kangshung valley in Tibet. Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy were the first ascenders on May 15, 1955, from the French expedition. Makalu is generally considered technically challenging among other snow-capped mountains above 8000m.
The steep gradients and the open knife-edged ridges are pretty dangerous for all travelers. The beautiful trail also passes through the Makalu-Barun Valley. The glaciers and white rivers of this region are quite an attraction for all travelers. Mount Makalu, along with Makalu Barun valley, remains protected by Makalu Barun National Park.
There is plenty of rare and endangered wildlife along the region, including lynxes, wolves, snow leopards, and others. Mount Makalu has a relatively lesser number of climbers than Everest. The trail of this trek passes through Gurung, Sherpa, Rai, and other ethnic settlements of the region.
Elevation: 8,188 m (26,864 ft)
Range: Mahalangur Himalayan Mountain Range
First ascent: October 19, 1954, Pasang Dawa Lama, Herbert Tichy, and Joseph Jöchler.
Mount Cho Oyu is the fifth highest mountain in Nepal. Mount Everest lies just 20 kilometers west of this mountain. ‘Cho Oyu’ means ‘Turquoise Goddess’ in the Tibetan language. The locals also refer to it as “mighty Head of the Goddess’. Legend of the region states that God Cho Oyu turned his back to Everest or “Chomolungma” when she refused his marriage proposal.
Mount Cho Oyu is a very accessible peak in the Mahalangur Himalayan mountain range. The Yaks and mules were generally used to pass through these high-altitude glacial passes by traders across Nepal and Tibet. The Austrian expedition group first ascended this peak on October 19, 1954. This mountain expedition team included Pasang Dawa Lama, Herbert Tichy, and Joseph Jochler.
Mountaineers love this peak and flock every year as it is accessible and manageable. Therefore, it is the second most climbed mountain after Mt Everest. The Tibet region route is quite famous for the ascent of this peak.
Elevation: 8,167 m (26,795 ft)
Range: Dhaulagiri Himalayan mountain range
First ascent: May 13, 1960, Kurt Diemberger, A. Schelbert, E. Forrer, Nawang Dorje, and Nyima Dorje
Dhaulagiri I is one of the most beautiful mountains in Dhaulagiri massif and is the sixth highest mountain in Nepal. The word “Dhawala” means “beautiful,” and “Giri” means “mountain.” Annapurna I lies 35 km east of this beautiful mountain and therefore creates the deepest gorge in the world, the Kali Gandaki Gorge.
The other mountains in Dhaulagiri massif also include Gurja Himal, Churen Himal(east), Churen Himal(primary), Churen Himal (west), the Peak Hawley, False Junction Peak, and the Hiunchuli Patan. The Kali Gandaki River in the region is quite beautiful. The proximity of the region to Mustang and Dolpo makes it a rainshadow area. Therefore, trekkers can trek in this off-the-beaten area any time of the year.
The Mustang region has dry, arid landscapes compared to the other landscapes with vast green hills and snow-capped mountains. The Swiss-Austrian expedition team first ascended mount Dhaulagiri on May 13, 1960. It included team members Kurt Diemberger, E. Forrer, Nawang Dorje Sherpa, P. Diener, A. Schelbert, Nyima Dorje Sherpa
Elevation: 8,156 m (26,781 ft)
Range: Mansiri Himalayan mountain range
First ascent: May 9, 1956, Artur Hajzer, Gyalzen Norbu, and Toshio Imanishi
Check: Manaslu Expedition
Mount Manaslu is the seventh highest mountain in Nepal, located in Mansiri Himalayan massif. The mountain is also known as “Kutang” in the Tibetan language, which means “the Mountain of Spirits.” “Manasa” means “soul” in the Sanskrit language.
Toshio Imanishi, Gyalzen Norbu, and Artur Hajzer of the Japanese team first ascended the mountain in 1956. The Japanese team led many Japanese climbers in the mountain and has remained popular among Japanese climbers. Mount Manaslu has many long ridges and valley glaciers which allows climbers to climb this beautiful mountain peak from all directions.
The majestic peak remains formed by ridges as there is a steeply rising slope in Mount Manaslu. The restricted area opened in 1991 for trekkers. Traders used these routes for salt trading along the Budhi Gandaki River. The Larkya La glacial pond (5,106 meters) north of Manaslu is another attraction of this tour. There is a wall of snow and ice in the region. Ngadi Chuli, Himalchuli, and others are some of the famous mountains of the Manaslu mountain range.
Elevation: 8,091 m (26,545 ft)
Range: Annapurna mountain massif
First ascent: June 3, 1950, Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, Lionel Terray, and others
Check: Annapurna Expedition
Annapurna I is the eighth highest mountain in Nepal and the tallest in Annapurna mountain massif. It is the only 8,000 meters mountain in this massif and is also last on the 8000m peaks in Nepal. There are numerous peaks above 7,000 meters and 6,000 meters in this Annapurna massif.
Annapurna means “abundance of food” and is therefore considered the “Goddess of Good fortune and wealth.” Swiss climber Ueli Steck first ascended the mountain in a solo ascent through the Lafaille route on 8th and 9th October 2013. This third attempt is generally considered one of the most incredible Himalayan climbs of all time.
Steck took around 28 hours to complete this journey from Annapurna Base Camp to the summit. Unfortunately, he lost his life in Nuptse on April 30, 2017. The area falls under the Annapurna Conservation Area that works to conserve rare and endangered wildlife of the region. The Annapurna Sanctuary protected area has incredible natural terrains.
Elevation: 7,957 m (26,089 ft)
Range: Mahalangur Himalayan range
First ascent: April 10, 1964, Pasang Phutar Sherpa, Yukihiko Kato, and Kiyoto Sakaizawa
Gyachung Kang, located between Mount Cho Oyu and Mount Everest, is the fifteenth-highest peak in the world and the ninth-highest mountain in Nepal. It was first ascended by Yukihiki Kato, Kiyoto Sakaizawa, and Pasang Phutar from a Japanese expedition team on April 10, 1964.
Gyachung Kang remains separated by a narrow saddle from Cho Oyu and Everest. Gyachung Kang remains covered in frozen snow all around the year. The mountain ranks among the top 10 highest mountains in Nepal. Climbers do not have much accessibility, and this mountain remains unpopular due to the mountain narrowly missing 8000m.
Elevation: 7,937 m (26,04 ft)
Range: Annapurna Mountain massif
First ascent: May 17, 1960, J.O.M. Roberts, Chris Bonington, Ang Nyima, and Richard Grant
The Annapurna II narrowly lands among the highest mountains in Nepal. This eastern region mountain was first ascended on May 17, 1960, by combined British, Indian, and Nepali mountaineers. Very few climbers have climbed this second-highest Annapurna range mountain.
Annapurna I is also the western anchor of Annapurna II. While it lies close to Annapurna I Main, it is fully independent. The popularity of this 16th highest mountain in the world is relatively high. Therefore, a large number of climbers flock to this mountain every year to complete this expedition.
Nepal is a diverse Himalayan nation home to many Himalayan mountains. Moreover, there are eight 8000m and above snow-capped mountains in the country. The tiny Himalayan nation has incredible beauty in diverse landscapes. The settlements of the ethnic community along the foothills of this mountain will enchant any travelers.
Mount Everest and other 8000m peaks are ideal for a great mountain climbing adventure. There are various sacred mountains in these regions, as they are of religious significance. Therefore, some of these mountains are generally prohibited from climbing.
Trekking to the base camp is another ideal adventure in high Himalayan conditions. The autumn and spring are peak seasons for these adventures. This article provides you with all the details about the highest mountain in Nepal. Contact us for more information regarding various trekking and expeditions. Happy traveling!