28 Aug 2023 Prakash Devkota
When it comes to the mountain adventure, the first thing that pops up on any avid mountaineer’s head is the home of the tallest mountain in the world, Mt. Everest (8,849 meters). Naturally, the mountain range of the country, the Himalayas, which boasts the tallest snow-clad peak in the world also houses some of the most magnificent peaks in the world. In fact, this alluring Himalayan range of Nepal includes 10 of the 14 tallest mountains in the world.
Without question, the summit of the tallest mountain in the world of Himalayan range is a lifelong dream of every passionate mountaineering enthusiast, however, if you are thinking about widening your Himlaya Mountaineering prospects, Nepal offers several other stunning expeditions on its Himalayan range. It doesn’t matter whether you are just a budding mountaineer or someone who is looking for challenge and thrills on the snowy slopes, the Himalayan range of Nepal meets the expectations of every kind of mountaineer. Let’s check out 12 of the most popular mountains to climb in the Himalayan range of Nepal.
6000m Peaks
Island Peak
Island Peak Elevation: 6,189 meters (20,305 feet)
Island Peak in the Himalaya Mountaineering is probably one first choice among mountaineering enthusiasts who are just the inception of their alpine career. Popular as a favorite trekking peak in Nepal, this mountain became a worldwide landmark after the British expedition of 1953 ascended this mountain as practiced before they ascended to Mt. Everest. Its beautiful structure that resembles an island amidst the sea of snow is how its name came to be Island Peak. Located in the eastern part of Nepal inside the Sagarmatha National Park, this 6,000-meter class mountain offers mesmerizing views of towering massifs like Mt. Everest, Mt. Ama Dablam, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Baruntse, Mt. Nuptse, Mt. Cho Oyu, and Mt. Kanchenjunga.
Among all other trekking peak-labelled mountain ranges in Himalaya Mountaineering, Island Peak climbing is one of the shortest expeditions that can be completed within just 13- 15 days. Considered one of the ideal mountain climbing for beginners, the difficulty level of this expedition is at a ‘Moderate’ level. Although it is not that much of a technically challenging mountain, there are some technical segments as well as a headwall on the slopes of the mountain. In the Alpine grading system, the Island Peak expedition has been graded a ‘2B’ difficulty level which means that the final two days of the climb are quite challenging.
Mera Peak
Mera Peak Elevation: 6,476 meters (21,247 feet)
If you are new to the Himalayan expedition or in the overall mountaineering field and want to gain some experience before attempting the highest peaks in the world, Mera Peak is just the right peak for you. Located in the Mahalnagur section in the Makalu Barun National Park, Mera Peak consists of three peaks, Mera South (6,065 meters), Mera North (6,476 meters), and Mera Central (6,476 meters). So, when you say Mera Peak Climbing, it is typically referring to the Mera Peak Central climbing, which is comparatively easier to its other counterparts.
Dubbed as the highest trekking peak in Nepal, from the summit of this gorgeous mountain in the Himalayas, you enjoy the magnificent views of the five of the highest mountains in the world; Mt. Everest, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Cho Oyu, Mt. Makalu, and Mt. Kanchenjunga. Mera Peak is counted as a practice peak in the Himalaya mountaineering and is one of the easiest peaks to conquer; you don’t need any prior mountaineering skills to scale this mountain. This mountain expedition generally takes about 17- 20 days and is pretty much a straight walk-up trek on the mountain slope. Mera Peak was initially graded an Alpine Grade F difficulty level, which means a straightforward easy trek, however, due to recent changes in glacial segments and the minor technical segments 30- 40 meters before the summit, it has been graded Alpine Grade PD, not very hard but still challenging.
The first climbers of Mt. Everest, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norway Sherpa set a trend during their successful ascent of the tallest mountain in the world on 29th May 1953. They climbed the Mera Peak both before and after their successful summit which hyped the climbing of this hidden Himalayan gem and now it is one of the most popular climbing adventures in the Himalaya Mountaineering.
See also: Best Time To Climb Mera Peak | Mera Peak Map | How Hard Is Mera Peak
Lobuche Peak
Lobuche Peak Elevation: 6,119 meters (20,076 feet)
Lobuche Peak is another popular practice peak in the Himalaya Mountaineering that is popular among mountaineering beginners. Standing at an elevation of 6,119 meters from sea level, this 6,000-meter class mountain is located just 150 km east of Kathmandu and quite close to the Khumbu Glacier (above the Lobuche Village). Lobuche Peak climbing is an ideal choice for budding mountaineers who are looking for a more advanced level of climbing with some technical segments.
Known for its spectacular views of the Himalayan vistas, the summit of Lobuhce Peak awards climbers with stunning views of Mt. Everes, Mt. Lhotse, Mt. Cholatse, Mt. Pumori, Mt. Nuptse, and Ama Dablam including several other adjacent peaks. Depending upon the itinerary, the expedition to this magnificent peak in the Himalayas takes approximately around 15- 20 days. As for its difficulty level, Lobuche Peak climbing has been graded a difficulty level of ‘ Moderately Difficult’ and Grade PD+ in the Alpine grading system. Even though it is almost the same as the difficulty level of the Mera Peak, there is certainly a more technical feel to the expedition of this mountain. Mostly the Lobuche Peak expedition is straightforward climbing, however, the southeast ride on the slopes of the mountain involves more technical climbing on the ice and rock section where climbers have to use mountaineering equipment.
What makes this expedition really exhilarating is that it follows the mainstream trekking route of the Everest Base Camp Trek (5,364 meters), thus, it will not only be the Lobuche Peak climbing but also the exploration of the highest base camp in the world.
See also:
- Best time for Lobuche Peak Climbing
- Lobuche Weather Nepal
- How Long Does It Take To Climb Lobuche Peak?
Ama Dablam
Ama Dablam Elevation: 6,812 meters (22,349 feet)
For all you Himalaya Mountaineering out there, you might have at least heard once about this spectacular peak in the Himalayas which has also been dubbed as the ‘Matterhorn of the Himlayas’. This beautiful peak is one of the most sought-after expeditions in the Himalayas and is one of the most challenging mountain peaks in the 6,000-meter class that offers a true challenge to mountaineering enthusiasts. First time summitted by an expedition team led by Sir Edmund Hillary on 13th March 1961, mountaineers climb via the southwest ridgeline, the safest pathway to the summit that Hillary used in the first summit.
Located in the easter Himalayan range of the country in the Koshi Province, the summit of this stunning mountain offers mesmerizing vistas of the Himalayan massifs like
This expedition takes around 25- 30 days depending on the itinerary plan and is one of the longest expeditions in the 6,000-meter class. Ama Dablam expedition has been graded a TD/5 difficulty level in SAC mountaineering, thus means that this mountain expedition involves steep climbing on the mixed ice, rock, and snow segment. Climbers must be in the top physical and mental condition to overcome the technical segment of the mountain; the route from Camp I to Camp II is the most technically challenging section of the mountain which features the Yelo Tower with a 90° vertical ascent.
See more:
Can a Beginner Climb Ama Dablam?
How Long Does It Take To Climb Mount Ama Dablam?
7000m Peaks
Himlung Himal
Himlung Himal Elevation: 7,126 meters (23,379 feet)
Popular as the sem-technical and high-altitude climbing adventure, the Himlung Himal expedition is considered one of the easiest and safest mountain climbing in the 7,000-meter class of Himalaya Mountaineering. This beautiful peak is located in the Manaslu region close to the Nepal and Tibetan border; to the northeast of the Annapurna massifs. From the summit of this peak, you can enjoy clear and stunning views of the nearby Manaslu, and Annapurna Massifs including several adjacent peaks.
The Himlung Himal expedition can last around 27- 30 days (accounting for acclimatization day, weather factors, and the trekking route) and it is considered to be an ‘Entry Level to Challenging’ expedition. Although Himlung Himal is classified as easy and safe in the 7,000-meter class, the summit push on this mountain is considered to be the longest and most challenging part of the expedition. You will have to overcome a 45-50° vertical climb that stretches for approximately 1,100 meters of altitude.
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Mt. Baruntse
Mt. Baruntese Elevation: 7,129 meters (23,389 feet)
If you are up for a little more challenging and rewarding experience in the Himalaya Mountaineering, the expedition of Baruntse peak standing between Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Makalu will be a thrilling adventure. Located in the eastern part of the country, south of the Hunku Glacier, the summit of this magnificent massif in the Khumbu region rewards climbers with clear views of the 8,000-meter mountains like Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Kanchenjunga, and Lhotse including several other smaller peaks.
Barutnse expedition typically takes around 31- 36 days depending on the acclimation process and weather factors. Graded a ‘Semi-Technical’ climb, you will require an adequate level of skills to overcome the challenges on the slopes. The 60° – 70° incline to Camp I, the rock and ice terrains, and the harsh high winds add significant challenges to this beautiful expedition.
Read also:
- Baruntse Expedition in Autumn
- Baruntse Climbing Difficulties and How to Tackle Them?
- Baruntse Climbing Season
Tilicho Peak
Tilicho Peak Elevation: 7,134 meters (23,405 feet)
Tilicho Peak is another technically challenging expedition in the 7,000-meter class that leads you to the summit of the mountain following the mainstream route of the Annapurna Circuit Trekking. Located in the Annapurna region, north of Manang, this beautiful Himalayan adventure also includes the exploration of the highest lake in the world, Tilicho Lake (4,910 meters). And, from its summit, you can enjoy the clear unprecedented beautiful paranormal of the Annapurna range, Dhaulagiri, Kali Gandaki Valley, Tibetan Plateau, and Tilicho Lake.
This fascinating Himalayan expedition takes approximately 30- 35 days, depending on the weather factors and of course acclimatization days. As it is a technical climb with ‘Difficult and Challenging’ slopes, climbers are required to have previous mountaineering experience to ascend this mountain. In the Alpine Grading System, Tilicho Peak is graded D+ in the fitness level, which means that this expedition is physically demanding and you need to be in your best fitness shape to overcome the challenges on this mountain.
Mt. Pumori
Mt. Pumori elevation: 7,161 meters (23,494 feet)
Located in the Mahalangur section close to the Nepal- Tibet border, Pumori is another gorgeous peak in the Himalaya Mountaineering, just 8 km west of Mt. Everest. This pyramid-shaped mountain in the Khumbu region dominated the skyline behind the Kalapatthar (5,643 meters), the highest elevation point of the Everest Base Camp trekking. The summit of this stunning 7,000-meter class peak in the Khumbu region offers spectacular views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, and Makalu including several other adjacent peaks in the Himalayas.
The Pumori expedition lasts somewhere between 32- 36 days, and this peak is considered one of the ‘Technically Challenging’ mountain climbing in the 7,000-meter class. Although the technical segments on the slopes of this mountain are ‘moderate to advanced’ with ice and snow segments, this expedition is only recommended for experienced climbers with adequate mountaineering skillsets.
8,000m peaks
Mt. Everest
Mt. Everest Elevation: 8,849 meters (29,032 feet)
When it comes to the Himalaya Mountaineering, there might be hardly anyone who would miss the tallest mountain in the world, Mt. Everest. Even among the Himalayan range with its magnificent and stunning peaks, this gigantic white-clad natural figurine towers over all. And it is a goal for every mountaineering enthusiast all over the world, the successful quest of this highest peak in the world is something that all mountaineers dream to achieve at least once in their lifetime.
Located in the Mahalangur sub-range of the Himalayas the summit of the tallest mountain in the world offers panoramic vistas of the surrounding peaks including all the way down to Shishapangma to the west and Kanchejunga in the east. The expedition to the highest peak in the world can take more than two months, as climbers have to emphasize the acclimatization and the weather factors. (6,000 meters). Considered one of the most difficult and technically challenging mountains, you will need prior mountaineering experience and an adequate skillset to scale this peak. First summitted by the mountaineering duo Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa in 1953, this magnificent peak of the Himalayas as of now has been scaled more than 9,000 times.
See also:
- How Low Can The Temperature Get On Mt. Everest?
- Best Month to Climb Mount Everest
- Dangers of Climbing Mount Everest
Mt. Manaslu
Mt. Manaslu Elevation: 8,163 meters (26,781 meters)
Manaslu, the eighth-tallest mountain in the world is another popular peak in the Himalaya Mountaineering which is considered to be an introductory peak in the 8,000-meter class. For many enthusiasts who are interested in Himalaya Mountaineering and want to level up their game by ascending an 8,000-meter peak, the first go-to choice is mostly the Manaslu Peak. Although it is considered one of the easiest 8,000-meter peaks with ‘Intermediate to Advanced’ difficulty level, the climbing route is strenuous and technical as you have to overcome the ‘death zone’, typically the region above the altitude of 8,000 meters where the oxygen saturation is at 40% and lower.
This magnificent Himalayan peak is located in the northern part of the country in the Manisiri Himal range and just 64 km east of Mt. Annapurna. From the top of this beautiful peak, you will be able to catch the breathtaking views of Annapurna Massifs, Langtang range, Ganesh Himal, and other nearby peaks including the picturesque views of the Manaslu Glacier. The scaling of this magnificent peak in the Himalayas takes approximately 35- 40 days, summitted first time by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, Mt. Manaslu is notorious for the dangerous avalanches on its slopes.
See also:
- Preparation For Manaslu Expedition
- How long does it take to climb Mount Manaslu?
- Where is Mt Manaslu located?
Mt. Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu Elevation: 8,201 meters (26,864 meters)
Mt. Cho Oyu is another popular peak in the Himalaya Mountaineering and is known for its relatively moderate slopes in the 8,000-meter class. If you are an intermediate mountaineering looking for building prospects in the Himalaya Mountaineering, the expedition of the sixth-highest peak is an ideal deal. Located on the Nepalese and Tibetan border approximately 30 km northwest of Mt. Everest, this summit of this stunning peak offers panoramic views of the Everest, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and other adjacent peaks spread across the Himalayas.
This mountain expedition takes approximately around over a month, depending on the itinerary, weather, and acclimatization factors. Cho Oyu with the easier tag in the 8,000-meter class like Manaslu has an ‘Intermediate to Advanced’ difficulty level. Although the challenge of ascending one of the highest mountains in the world cannot be underestimated, the technical segments on the slope of this mountain are at a moderate level.
Mt. Makalu
Mt. Makalu Elevation: 8,481 meters (27,825 meters)
If you are looking for a bit of challenge for your Himalaya Mountaineering prospects, the fifth-highest mountain in the world, Makalu offers one of the most challenging and thrilling adventures. Residing in the Mahalangur range of the Himalayas, 195 km southeast of Mt. Everest, this beautiful peak is known for its unprecedented iconic- pyramid-shaped ridge. From the summit of this magnificent peak, you will be able to enjoy the mesmerizing views of Makalu, Baruntse, Chamlang, Kanchenjunga, and several close by peaks.
This mountain expedition takes approximately 50- 55 days, which will significantly depend on the weather and acclimatization factors. Considered one of the hardest and most technical climbs in the 8,000-meter class, the Makalu expedition has been graded a ‘Strenuous and Challenging’ climb. The route between Camp II to Camp II on the slopes of the mountain is considered the most challenging and during the final ascent, you will have to overcome the rock and ice segments on about 400 meters of the knife ridge ascending route. So, if you are looking for a challenge and the slope to test your skill set, this exhilarating mountain expedition is packed with all the thrills you are looking for.
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Prakash Devkota
Managing Director and Team Leader
Mr. Prakash Chandra Devkota is an established name in the Tourism Sector in Nepal. He is a focused individual gifted with a brilliant mind. He is also hugely dedicated to social work. Born in the Gorkha district, a beautiful hilly region of Nepal, he first entered the tourism industry as a guide in 1997. He has gained extensive experience in almost all the trekking and climbing routes like Mera, Island, Lobuche and, Ama Dablam, etc.
He registered Nepal Guides Treks & Expedition in 2009 AD. Due to his passion for adventure and efforts to provide quality personalized service to his clients, he has established himself as a successful tourism entrepreneur. He has dedicated most of his time working diligently to elevate the tourism industry and collected more than 15 years of experience in organizing trekking and expeditions in Nepal, Bhutan, and India. He believes in the power of the tourism industry and the employment opportunities that can be created through it. He constantly looks for innovative ways to run the company.
Mr. Devkota has always been an avid practitioner of eco-friendly tourism and has always promoted environmental conservation throughout his career. He motivates his staff to embrace eco-friendly tourism through responsible tourism practices. He believes promoting eco-tourism will preserve natural resources and positively impact the environment.
