How to Prepare for Island Peak Climbing?

7 Feb 2020 Prakash Devkota

How to Prepare for Island Peak Climbing?

Island Peak is one of the most beautiful trekking peaks. Island Peak (6,189m) is a technically classified trekking peak. It is located in the Khumbu Region between Mount Lhotse and Ama Dablam. It appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. This climbing peak is actually an extension of the ridge of the southern end of Lhotse Shar. Climbers mark this peak as a harder climbing. This Alpine PD+ classified trekking peak is very demanding and challenging. In this piece of article, I am going to tell you about how to prepare for Island Peak Climbing.

    Prepare for Island Peak Climbing

    Island Peak is physically tough because of extreme altitude, numerous crevasses, and steep headwall at the end. The first part is physically very hard. Once you reach the glacier field, you have to set up ropes and use the crampons. This difficult yet beautiful peak requires much more gear than other similar ascents. The equipment is mandatory for your safety and comfort.

    The best preparation for tomorrow is doing your best today.  Preparation is key to the success of any activity.  Good preparations are must for the successful peak climbing. You need to consider several things before going for peak climbing.

    For the successful Island Peak Climbing, your physique plays a vital role.  So, you must prepare for island peak climbing by yourself before the climb. You would better join a mountaineering course for 4-6 months. Otherwise, you can join the gym and have aerobic training, cardio, stress endurance training, hiking training etc. You can also practice jogging, cycling, swimming, hiking etc. on a regular basis.

    Island Peak Climbing

    Your previous experiences in mountaineering are also important. So, you must practice hiking to some smaller peaks. Similarly, you should be careful about your diet. You must include plenty of protein, carbohydrates, and minerals in your diet. A balanced diet is very important for physical fitness. Moreover, you must be mentally ready to cope up with the adverse situations in the mountain.

    The weather is unstable at high altitude and you should also spend a couple of days in a camp. Hygiene matters a lot for the success of the climb. In addition to all these, you must also go through the Island Peak Gears checklist and have enough collection of them.

      Physical Fitness and Experience Required for Island Peak Climbing

      Island Peak is a technical adventure activity in Nepal which requires previous trekking experience and technical skills about peak climbing gears to have a successful summit. The trip is very suitable for adventure motivated trekkers who have the ability to walk in snow ridges and adventurous trails. Walking in high altitudes might attract high altitude sickness, a slow and steady walk would be the perfect solution.

      We suggest every trekker who is planning to come to Nepal for trekking and peak climbing adventure to do daily physical workout (jogging, hiking, cycling, gym, etc) prior to a couple of weeks. We recommend undertaking Island Peak only if you have undertaken other smaller peaks of the same region. Here is the list of the activities that must be done compulsorily before attempting any peak climbing in Nepal:

      • Go for a run or hike to hills where you have to do ascents and descents.
      • Once a week, do a long walk.
      • Swim and cycle.
      • You can also go up and down the stairs of a tall building.
      • Eat healthy food.
      • Keep on doing. If you can, do more yoga related to breathing. 

      Island Peak Climbing Gears and Equipment

      Good Preparation for Island Peak Climbing

      Island peak is a popular mountain peak of the Everest region. Island Peak is a difficult ascent. Therefore, you need to have many technical gears for the successful climb. Here is the list of the must to include equipment.

      • Climbing Helmet: Choose a good quality climbing helmet. Make sure your warm cap fits under your helmet.
      • Climbing Boots: High altitude, Insulated stiff-soled climbing boots.
      • Crampons: C2 crampons that fit the climbing boots.
      • Climbing Harness: Good quality climbing harness.
      • Ascending device or Jumar
      • Descending or belay device
      • Tape sling: UIAA tested 220cm open tape sling or 2 x 120 cm closed tape sling
      • Carabiners: 2 x lockable carabiners. 2 x non-locking carabiners
      • Prusik loop: Best quality prusik loop
      • Ice axe: An ice axe with a wrist strap for climbing

      Permit and Cost for Island Peak with EBC

      You need a climbing permit to climb Island Peak. You will need permits to enter the Sagarmatha National Park as well. En -route, there are regular security checkpoints. You must show your permits to pass through them. Basically, you must have the following permits for Island Peak climbing:

      Local (Everest Region) Area Permit: NRS. 2000 (the US $20)

      Island Peak climbing permit cost according to the four seasons:

      • Spring: March, April, and May: US $250
      • Summer/Monson: June, July, and August: US $70
      • Autumn: September, October, and November: US $125
      • Winter: December, January, and February: US $70

        Accommodations during Island Peak Climbing

        At a reasonable Island Peak Climbing Cost, sophisticated hotels and resorts from normal tourist standard category to five-star categories are available in Kathmandu for your accommodation, where you can choose your suitable one.

        During the entire trekking (apart from the climbing period of Island Peak) there is the availability of tea house/lodges. And during the climbing period for a couple of days, we need to set up a tent camp for our accommodations. So we will provide all tea house accommodation at available places and camping accommodation at the places where tea house/lodges are not available. Accommodation can be Single, Double, Triple or twin sharing basis as per your requirement.

        Island Peak Route Map

        Meals during Island Peak Climbing

        Island Peak Climbing Expeditions are inclusive for all meals (Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner) including the entire trekking and climbing period, apart from the BB plan during the stay in Kathmandu. We will have Dinner and Breakfast in the same teahouse/Camp where we spent overnight and Lunch will be en-route of trekking towards next destination since we have to leave our accommodation after breakfast to continue the trek. You can enjoy the taste of varieties of cuisines; Nepali food, Tibetan, Continental, Indian, Italian etc by choosing in the menu.

        During the camping period, while we are in Island Peak Base Camp and High Camp, our kitchen team will prepare hygienic foods to serve you. There might not be several choices of foods during the camp like in the tea houses and restaurants.

        You have to understand that our crew have to carry all camping gears and kitchen types of equipment from available places but we are sure we will provide as much services and facilities as we can do to make your adventure holiday awesome. 

        Altitude Sickness

        Altitude sickness is the effect of oxygen deficiency in the blood and tissues at a high altitude. It is the negative health effects of high altitude due to the rapid exposure to a low amount of oxygen at high elevations. The common symptoms of Altitude sickness include headaches, vomiting, tiredness, trouble sleeping and dizziness. 

        Altitude Sickness generally referred to as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) occurs only above 2500m. The main reason for altitude sickness is rapid ascent and decreasing the amount of oxygen at a high altitude. There are mainly three types of altitude sickness: Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema. 

        Altitude Sickness can become a medical emergency if ignored. The best way to prevent altitude sickness is to travel to high altitude slowly. It normally doesn’t take long for your body to adjust into a changed altitude. At the higher altitudes, the air pressure and oxygen level are comparatively lower. Our body takes time to adjust to such change. We suggest you keep you hydrated, not to smoke or drink the alcoholic substance, eat hygienic food, sleep low, take it easy, use Diamox tablets etc. to prevent yourself from Altitude Sickness.

        Mera and Island Peak

        Is Nepal Safe?

        No doubt, Nepal is safe for trekking, hiking and mountaineering. The trekking trails are improvised and maintained as well. In many technical sections, ropes have been fixed. 

        The stains of the devastating earthquake have also been healing up and the decade long armed insurgency has also come to an end along with the implementation of the new constitution. 

        Tourist Help Desk and Tourism Information Centre have been established at the prominent tourist destinations. Moreover, you will receive a respectable welcome everywhere you go. The Nepali people are simple and kind to you and pay a wonderful hostage to you.

        Don’t worry; Nepal is a safe country to visit.

        Tips for Island Peak Climbing

        • Be prepare for island peak climbing.
        • Pack sufficient, don’t include unessential and don’t miss the basics.
        • Be ready to cope up with the unfamiliar weather pattern and respect the weather
        • Choose the easier route: simply the one from South Col.
        • Be aware of the altitude sickness
        • Quickly pass the Khumbu Icefall and other treacherous areas
        • Keep sufficient spare oxygen cylinders
        • Use ropes
        • Drink Plenty
        • Be familiar with your gears and alpine, medicines

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          Final Say

          Island Peak Climbing is the most famous climbing expedition in the Everest Region.  As we have already described above, climbing the Island Peak requires a lot of training and mental stamina as well as a good collection of climbing gears and equipment. Therefore, we would like to request anyone hoping to ascent Island Peak to be fully prepared first. If you want any help from us, we are ready for your service. 

          Feel free to contact Nepal Guide Treks and Expeditions for further information.


          Prakash Devkota

          Managing Director and Team Leader

          Mr. Prakash Chandra Devkota is an established name in the Tourism Sector in Nepal. He is a focused individual gifted with a brilliant mind. He is also hugely dedicated to social work. Born in the Gorkha district, a beautiful hilly region of Nepal, he first entered the tourism industry as a guide in 1997. He has gained extensive experience in almost all the trekking and climbing routes like Mera, Island, Lobuche and, Ama Dablam, etc.

          He registered Nepal Guides Treks & Expedition in 2009 AD. Due to his passion for adventure and efforts to provide quality personalized service to his clients, he has established himself as a successful tourism entrepreneur. He has dedicated most of his time working diligently to elevate the tourism industry and collected more than 15 years of experience in organizing trekking and expeditions in Nepal, Bhutan, and India. He believes in the power of the tourism industry and the employment opportunities that can be created through it. He constantly looks for innovative ways to run the company.

          Mr. Devkota has always been an avid practitioner of eco-friendly tourism and has always promoted environmental conservation throughout his career. He motivates his staff to embrace eco-friendly tourism through responsible tourism practices. He believes promoting eco-tourism will preserve natural resources and positively impact the environment.