Island Peak Climbing Checklist

28 Jun 2019 Prakash Devkota

Island Peak Climbing Checklist

Island Peak (6,189m) is a technically classified trekking peak. It is located in the Khumbu Region between Mount Lhotse and Ama Dablam. It appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. This climbing peak is actually an extension of the ridge of the southern end of Lhotse Shar. Climbers mark this peak as a harder climbing. This Alpine PD+ classified trekking peak is very demanding and challenging.

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Island Peak is physically tough because of extreme altitude, numerous crevasses, and steep head-wall at the end. The first part is physically very hard. Once you reach the glacier field, you have to set up ropes and use the crampons. This difficult yet beautiful peak requires much more gears than other similar ascents. The equipment is mandatory for your safety and comfort. In this piece of discourse, I am featuring a checklist for Island Peak Climbing.

Island Peak Expedition


Island Peak Climbing Checklist

1. Crampons

A crampon is a grip (traction) device that is attached to the footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing.   Crampons are mainly used for ice climbing. They are used for walking on the ice fields and climbing on glaciers.   

2. Ice Axe

It is a straight and shafted axe with a gently curved pick used for both ascending and descending in icy surfaces. It is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool because you can use it for digging, cutting steps, securing a harness or you can simply use it as a walking stick.

    3. Harness

    It is a strap worn around the waist with loops to fit in your thighs. It is worn for securing you to a rope or an anchor. It must be well fitted and comfortable.

    4. Descender/ Super 8

    This is a shape of 8 devices made up of Aluminium. The figure of eight locks allows you to have very precise control over speed while descending. This friction brake is used in combination with climbing harness and karabiner.

    5. Ascender/ Jumar

    It is a mechanical device that is attached to the rope to make the ascending easy. It provides safety and additional support to ascending. It must be comfortable enough to be used with gloves or mittens. It can be best used on great walls and caving.

    6. Karabiner

    Karabiner is a special type of shackle that is used to connect components, especially for the protection of your harness. They are mostly used in rope. It is better to bring four Karabiners, two lockings, and two unlocking

    7. Ropes

    Climbing ropes are normally categorized as static and dynamic. Static ropes are for abseiling. They are used as fixed ropes for ascending. Dynamic ropes, on the other hand, are used as belaying ropes to absorb the shock of a falling climber.

    8. Prusik Rope

    It is a knot to attach a loop of cord around a rope. The Prusik Loop is used in mountaineering, climbing, and tying knots. They are also used in rope rescue.

    9. Tape Slings

    They are the climbing equipment designed to attach the climbers to anchor and clip into the rope and reduce drag. A tape sling made of nylon or Dyneema is preferred.

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    10. Belay Device

    It is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. It acts as a friction brake so that when a climber falls with any slack in the rope, the fall is stopped dramatically.

    11. Ice Screws

    Ice screw is a long screw used to hold a falling climber. It can be used both as running belays or anchors. It is used in tackling steep ice surfaces. Not all peaks of Nepal require them. However, it is sensible to include it.

    12. Trekking Poles

    It is a common hiking accessory used to assist walkers with their rhythm and provide stability on rough terrain, steep slopes for long-distance. 

    13. Snow Bar

     Snow bar or stakes are hammered or buried to secure the rope in place for weight support of a climber. They are functional for fall protection and holding static loads.

    Also Check: Essential Gear and Equipment for Mera Peak Climbing

    Island Peak Tour

    Equipment Checklist

    1. Body Wear
    • Waterproof Shell Jacket
    • Waterproof Shell Pant
    • Down  Vest and Jacket
    • Mid-weight Insulated Jacket 
    • Lightweight Fleece Top
    • Wind shirt
    • Softshell Climbing Pant 
    • Glacier Shirt
    • Base Layer Top and Leggings (2 sets)
    • Casual Trekking Clothes
    • Underwear
    2. Head Wear
    • Warm Hat
    • Sun Hat
    • Balaclava
    • Sunglasses (UV Protection)
    • Ski Goggles
    • Head Scarf
    • Neck Gaiter
    3. Hand Wear
    • Liner Gloves (2 pair)
    • Fleece Gloves
    • Mountaineering Gloves
    • Mittens
    4. Foot Wear
    • Light Weight Inner Socks and Heavy Wool Socks (3-5 pairs)
    • Light Weight Shoes/Sandal
    • Trekking Boots
    • 6000 m Mountaineering Boots
    • Snow Gaiters

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      5. Packs and Bags
      • Small Lockable Duffel Bag (30-40 litres)-1
      • Large Lockable Duffel Bag (90-140 litres)-1
      • Day pack (40-50 litres)
      6. Campaign Gears
      • Down Sleeping Bag 
      • Foam Sleeping Mat
      • Inflatable Sleeping Mat
      • Campaign Pillow
      • Water Bottle (2)
      • Water Bottle Covers (2)
      • Cup, Bowl, and Spoons
      • Pee Bottle
      7. Accessories
      • Headlamp and Batteries
      • First Aid Kit and Medication
      • Toiletries
      • Sun Cream and Lip Balm
      • Wet Wipes
      • Campaign Towel
      • Personal Entertainment (optional)
      • Pocket Knife and Tool Kit
      • Camera (optional)
      • Stuff Sacks
      • Chemical Hand and Toe Warmers
      • Ear Plugs (optional)
      • Mobile Phone
      8. Others 
      • Copy of Passport
      • Travel Agent Contact Details
      • Insurance Policy Details
      island peak climbing checklist
      Island peak climbing


      Wool or Synthetic Socks: Three pairs of medium to heavy hiking socks are preferred. These must fit over your liner socks.

      Double Boots: It is prescribed to use non-plastic shelled boots because they are more comfortable.

      Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit over your mountaineering boots are best.

      Light Hiking/ Trekking Shoes: Best to approach dry trail. It must be lightweight and highly comfortable.

      Short Underwear: Synthetic or wool fabrics and comfortable athletic style are preferred. 

      Base Layer Bottom: Non- cotton base layer bottom that fit closely without constrictions.

      Base Layer Top:  Light coloured Merino Wool or polyester made long-sleeved base layers are suitable.

      Mid layer Tops: They must be lightweight, form-fitting for using over base layers.

      You can also Check: Peak Climbing Tools and Equipment

      Soft Shell Pants: They must be comfortable, non–insulated and stretchable to fit comfortably with or without your base layer bottoms.

      Soft Shell Jacket: This is a key part of a mountaineering layering system. It must be breathable but wind and weather resistant. It is worn over the mid-layer top and base layer top. Hooded model is the best.

      Hardshell Pants: Non insulated fully waterproof that fits comfortably over your base layer bottoms and softshell pants are prescribed.

      Hard Shell Jacket: Non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket with a hood.

      Down Jacket: Heavily Insulated and high-quality down-filled jacket with a hood.

      Insulated Synthetic Pants: Synthetic insulated pant with full length separating side zips are required.

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        Liner Gloves: Very lightweight wool or synthetic liner gloves that comfortably fit is a must.

        Soft Shell Gloves: Leather constructed, mid-weight, lightly insulated gloves are very useful when mittens are too warm and liner gloves are not warm enough.

        Insulated Shell Gloves: They are very suitable to use in extreme cold. Insulated gloves with removable liners are recommended.

        Expedition Mittens: Insulated mittens with a removable liner and warmest model are best to use. 


        Prakash Devkota

        Managing Director and Team Leader

        Mr. Prakash Chandra Devkota is an established name in the Tourism Sector in Nepal. He is a focused individual gifted with a brilliant mind. He is also hugely dedicated to social work. Born in the Gorkha district, a beautiful hilly region of Nepal, he first entered the tourism industry as a guide in 1997. He has gained extensive experience in almost all the trekking and climbing routes like Mera, Island, Lobuche and, Ama Dablam, etc.

        He registered Nepal Guides Treks & Expedition in 2009 AD. Due to his passion for adventure and efforts to provide quality personalized service to his clients, he has established himself as a successful tourism entrepreneur. He has dedicated most of his time working diligently to elevate the tourism industry and collected more than 15 years of experience in organizing trekking and expeditions in Nepal, Bhutan, and India. He believes in the power of the tourism industry and the employment opportunities that can be created through it. He constantly looks for innovative ways to run the company.

        Mr. Devkota has always been an avid practitioner of eco-friendly tourism and has always promoted environmental conservation throughout his career. He motivates his staff to embrace eco-friendly tourism through responsible tourism practices. He believes promoting eco-tourism will preserve natural resources and positively impact the environment.