28 Jun 2019 Peak Climbing Nepal
Island Peak (6,189m) is a technically classified trekking peak. It is located in the Khumbu Region between Mount Lhotse and Ama Dablam. It appears as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. This climbing peak is actually an extension of the ridge of the southern end of Lhotse Shar. Climbers mark this peak as a harder climbing. This Alpine PD+ classified trekking peak is very demanding and challenging.
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Island Peak is physically tough because of extreme altitude, numerous crevasses, and steep head-wall at the end. The first part is physically very hard. Once you reach the glacier field, you have to set up ropes and use the crampons. This difficult yet beautiful peak requires much more gears than other similar ascents. The equipment is mandatory for your safety and comfort. In this piece of discourse, I am featuring a checklist for Island Peak Climbing.
Table of Contents
A crampon is a grip (traction) device that is attached to the footwear to improve mobility on snow and ice during ice climbing. Crampons are mainly used for ice climbing. They are used for walking on the ice fields and climbing on glaciers.
It is a straight and shafted axe with a gently curved pick used for both ascending and descending in icy surfaces. It is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool because you can use it for digging, cutting steps, securing a harness or you can simply use it as a walking stick.
It is a strap worn around the waist with loops to fit in your thighs. It is worn for securing you to a rope or an anchor. It must be well fitted and comfortable.
This is a shape of 8 devices made up of Aluminium. The figure of eight locks allows you to have very precise control over speed while descending. This friction brake is used in combination with climbing harness and karabiner.
It is a mechanical device that is attached to the rope to make the ascending easy. It provides safety and additional support to ascending. It must be comfortable enough to be used with gloves or mittens. It can be best used on great walls and caving.
Karabiner is a special type of shackle that is used to connect components, especially for the protection of your harness. They are mostly used in rope. It is better to bring four Karabiners, two lockings, and two unlocking
Climbing ropes are normally categorized as static and dynamic. Static ropes are for abseiling. They are used as fixed ropes for ascending. Dynamic ropes, on the other hand, are used as belaying ropes to absorb the shock of a falling climber.
It is a knot to attach a loop of cord around a rope. The Prusik Loop is used in mountaineering, climbing, and tying knots. They are also used in rope rescue.
They are the climbing equipment designed to attach the climbers to anchor and clip into the rope and reduce drag. A tape sling made of nylon or Dyneema is preferred.
It is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. It acts as a friction brake so that when a climber falls with any slack in the rope, the fall is stopped dramatically.
Ice screw is a long screw used to hold a falling climber. It can be used both as running belays or anchors. It is used in tackling steep ice surfaces. Not all peaks of Nepal require them. However, it is sensible to include it.
It is a common hiking accessory used to assist walkers with their rhythm and provide stability on rough terrain, steep slopes for long-distance.
Snow bar or stakes are hammered or buried to secure the rope in place for weight support of a climber. They are functional for fall protection and holding static loads.
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Wool or Synthetic Socks: Three pairs of medium to heavy hiking socks are preferred. These must fit over your liner socks.
Double Boots: It is prescribed to use non-plastic shelled boots because they are more comfortable.
Gaiters: Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit over your mountaineering boots are best.
Light Hiking/ Trekking Shoes: Best to approach dry trail. It must be lightweight and highly comfortable.
Short Underwear: Synthetic or wool fabrics and comfortable athletic style are preferred.
Base Layer Bottom: Non- cotton base layer bottom that fit closely without constrictions.
Base Layer Top: Light coloured Merino Wool or polyester made long-sleeved base layers are suitable.
Mid layer Tops: They must be lightweight, form-fitting for using over base layers.
You can also Check: Peak Climbing Tools and Equipment
Soft Shell Pants: They must be comfortable, non–insulated and stretchable to fit comfortably with or without your base layer bottoms.
Soft Shell Jacket: This is a key part of a mountaineering layering system. It must be breathable but wind and weather resistant. It is worn over the mid-layer top and base layer top. Hooded model is the best.
Hardshell Pants: Non insulated fully waterproof that fits comfortably over your base layer bottoms and softshell pants are prescribed.
Hard Shell Jacket: Non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket with a hood.
Down Jacket: Heavily Insulated and high-quality down-filled jacket with a hood.
Insulated Synthetic Pants: Synthetic insulated pant with full length separating side zips are required.
Liner Gloves: Very lightweight wool or synthetic liner gloves that comfortably fit is a must.
Soft Shell Gloves: Leather constructed, mid-weight, lightly insulated gloves are very useful when mittens are too warm and liner gloves are not warm enough.
Insulated Shell Gloves: They are very suitable to use in extreme cold. Insulated gloves with removable liners are recommended.
Expedition Mittens: Insulated mittens with a removable liner and warmest model are best to use.