21 Nov 2024 Prakash Devkota
Manaslu is the world’s 8th tallest mountain at an altitude of 8,163 meters/26,781 feet. It lies within the Gorkha District in central Nepal. The Manaslu Circuit Trek is one of the major trekking routes in the Manaslu region, which completely circumnavigates the Manaslu massif. The Manaslu Base Camp is usually established at 4,700 meters. This place serves as a grounds where the climbers set up tents in order to begin the ascent to reach the summit of this towering peak.
Climbing Manaslu presents some major challenges, such as technical routes, avalanche threats, unpredictable weather and more. The Mount Manaslu climbing success rate has generally ranged from about 60 % to 70 % over the past two decades. And this rate is usually high during the autumn season, increasing to 75 % to 80 % due to favorable weather conditions. Less rainfall, good visibility, reduced winds, fewer temperature fluctuations, drier trails and stable snow contribute in making the autumn climb of Manalsu successful.
The technical issues and risks of avalanches are huge in Manaslu. This is especially true in the upper reaches of the mountain. It has contributed to a fatality rate of around 2 to 3% in some years. Successful Manaslu expedition depends on diverse factors ranging from altitude sickness (common at high altitudes) to logistical support, such as experienced guides and oxygen supply. Most climbers who make it to the higher camps have a good chance of summiting Manaslu, provided they are well prepared and conditions are favorable.
History of the Manaslu Expedition
Between 1950 and 1955, several Japanese expeditions made attempts on Manaslu, exploring its north and east faces, but none succeeded. So, the history of the first successful Manaslu expedition dates back to May 9, 1956. This year, a Japanese team led by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu became the first to summit the world’s eighth highest peak.
Prior to this in 1950, British explorer H.W. Tilman’s expedition was the first team to spot Manaslu while surveying the Annapurna massif. Though they did not attempt the climb, Tilman recognized that a route to the summit of Manaslu was possible.
It wasn’t until 15 years later that the peak was successfully climbed again. This time it was by a Japanese team that ascended via the Northwest Spur in 1972.
Why is Manaslu Called a Killer Mountain?
Manaslu is often referred to as a ‘Killer Mountain’ as it has a high death rate compared with other major peaks. The journey to the top of this Himalayan peak introduces you to some formidable challenges, which sometimes become life threatening. Dangerous slopes, coupled with unstable alpine weather, avalanches and the physical demand of remote mountain climbing, make its extremely thrilling.
Climbing Manaslu needs thorough preparation and skills as it is not only high but also quite hard to conquer. It was only in 1972 that Manaslu gained the reputation of a ‘killer’ when an avalanche swept through and hit a Korean camp, killing about 15 climbers. Among them were the Korean leader Kim Ho Sup and Japanese climber Kazunari Yasuhisa, along with 10 Nepalese mountaineers. That tragic event pointed to the inherent dangers of Manaslu and further set it among the world’s most dangerous peaks.
Later on September 23, 2011, another deadly avalanche struck and killed ten climbers. This and a few other years have thrown large fluctuations in the Manaslu climbing success rates. But from these experiences, both climbers and authorities have adapted with better preparation and safety protocols.
Manaslu Climbing Route
The normal route to the summit of Manaslu follows the northeast face. The ascent to the base camp (4,800 meters) starts from Samagaun. After that, they proceed upwards through Camp 1 (5,700 meters), Camp 2 (6,400 meters), Camp 3 (6,800 meters) and Camp 4 (7,450 meters).
The route to Camp 1 is steep uphill through a glacier filled area full of crevasses. Between Camp 1 and Camp 2, you have to cross the dangerous Japanese Cwm. It is a large and steep, bowl shaped glacial basin filled with crevasses surrounded by towering ridgelines and cliffs. The risk of and avalanche and rockfall is high in this area.
To reach Camp 3, you have to make your way through a series of ice walls. Moreover, the final stretch above Camp 3 is extremely cold, with powerful winds and diminishing oxygen, making climbing exhausting and difficult.
However reaching atop the gigantic Manalsu is a reward after going through the hurdles of the climb. The sense of victory and achievement coupled with eye filling views of snow covered peaks makes all your fatigue melt away. Climbing Manaslu is not only standing on the summit of a mountain but also proving that all obstacles can be overcome. To those who have been fortunate enough to make it to the top, the pinnacle of Manaslu is a reward like no other.
Manaslu Success Rate
Climbing Manaslu is one of the most challenging tasks in the Himalayas, given the world’s eighth highest peak.
Manaslu climbing success rate is 60 to 70 %. Since the peak was first ascended, over 3,000 climbers have summited it with over 300 in 2022. As fewer climbers attempt the summit each year, it has become a prime target for thrill seekers looking for a more adventurous experience.
Manaslu is known as the ‘Mountain of the Spirit.’ This saying is aimed at elite climbers who are on a challenging ascent. The success or failure of the climb can considerably depend on whether good logistics are available. Experienced Sherpa guides, an adequate oxygen supply and well equipped base camps are the essential aspects of an easy and victorious expedition.
Indeed, poor preparation and lack of support infrastructure have resulted in lower success rates in the past. Sometimes, climbers opt for the summit push without supplemental oxygen. This will greatly lower the success rate of climbing the mountain.
Success rates afterward remained quite steady and climbers continued to test their abilities on the mountain. Gradually, the summit rate increased with fewer fatalities. Better preparation and weather conditions were the reasons for such favorable outcomes. Nowadays, Manalsu has been facing an increase in expeditions by many climbers and the same is the success rate.
Factors Affecting the Manaslu Climbing Success Rate
Everchanging Mountain Weather
Manaslu is known for its unpredictable weather, which frequently turns into heavy snow and high winds. The sudden change in the weather conditions directly affects the safety of the summit push.
Moreover, the temperature can fall below -25 degrees Celcius and during storms, the speed of wind can be more than 100 km/hr. Such intense weather conditions make the navigation of the Manaslu climbing routes difficult.
Avalanches Threat
The prime dangers of the Manaslu expedition are avalanches. These are possible due to unstable snow conditions. After heavy snowfall, the huge snow covers on steep slopes leading to the summit of Manaslu pose the risk of avalanches, making the climb of this mountain dangerous.
Risk of Altitude Sickness
Manaslu is an 8,000 meter class mountain and its high elevation is a big threat for altitude sickness even for experienced climbers. The severe cases of altitude sickness are life threatening, like High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE) and High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). So far, over 40% of the Manaslu climbers have suffered from altitude sickness. Symptoms include headaches, nausea, dizziness, breathing and sleeping difficulty and loss of appetite.
Skills and Experience of a Climber
Climbing Manaslu requires good technical mountaineering experience and expertise due to the presence of icefalls and crevasses. Generally speaking, alpine climbers who are more used to self sufficiency and minimalistic setups enjoy better success rates. In contrast, those who rely too much on outside support need to struggle more.
Falling Seracs and Fall
Seracs are huge blocks of glacial ice. Their fall can pose serious threats to climbers. Being hit by big fatal ice blocks can cause serious injuries or even deaths. In 2021, falling seracs led to multiple accidents. It is more dangerous in steeper sections of trails, where one will have very little time to react to it. So, it is essential to monitor the stability of the ice and walk quickly across those places where the risks are higher.
Likewise, falls are other major causes of death while climbing Manaslu. Since the peak is technically difficult with steep icy slopes and narrow ridgelines, a single misstep or slip can result in a fatal fall. In 2017, a climber lost his life due to falling off the summit ridge 300 meters. However, the fall risks can be minimized by proper use of fixed ropes, crampons and harnesses.
Manaslu Expedition Season
Autumn is the best Manaslu climbing season. This post monsoon period, ranging from September to November, is the right time for expeditions to Manaslu, which have been very much successful.
By autumn, nature gets colored with hills, forests and valleys taking on the hues of gold, red, purple, orange and more because of the fall foliage. The crisp air and clear skies present climbers with unequaled mountaineering experience. One can enjoy the spectacular views of the surrounding mountains under a deep blue sky, contributed by the excellent visibility conditions.
During the autumn months, the weather conditions are usually more stable. There is less precipitation, making trekking and climbing routes drier and more accessible. The way up to the summit of this peak is easier and less exhausting at this time.
Most climbers attempt the Manaslu summit in autumn. Over 600 people, on average, have reached the top of this mountain successfully in the autumn season. The major reason for the success rate to be marginally better during this time is due to the longer window of good weather.
Considerations Before Climbing Manaslu
Good Physical and Mental Preparation
A prepared climber has a higher chance of success when handling unexpected obstacles safely and successfully. Given that the Manaslu expedition involves long days of trekking and about 20 days of climbing it demands excellent physical stamina and mental fortitude.
You must be healthy and physically fit for this high Himalayan expedition. Stamina and endurance will be highly needed to handle demanding trails and high altitude challenges. For this, most people prepare by working out and focusing on cardiovascular exercises and strength workouts months before to enhance their overall fitness.
Additionally, meditation and yoga could help in the psychological aspects, as one needs to be calm and composed during the journey. Besides, geting familiar with the technical equipment you will use will make you feel contented with your gear before hitting the trail.
On the other hand mental preparation is equally important for a climb. Keeping goals in mind, enhancing resilience and staying positive will help you push through the difficulties that inevitably will arise on the mountain.
Appropriate Packing
Planning for conquering Manaslu requires packing appropriate gear. These are essential to ensure both the safety and success of your expedition. Superior quality gears built for high altitude climbs are essential in selecting the necessary equipment for complete preparation. If you are wondering what gears you might require, here is the list of those:
- Combination of base, insulation and outer layer clothes
- Wilderness first aid kit and general medicines
- Personal hygiene toiletry items
- Backpacks
- Trekking poles
- Headlamps
- Trekking boots
- Sleeping bags
- Mountaineering boots
- Crampons (fitting with boots for ice and snow traction)
- Ice axe
- Harness (lightweight and comfortable for long climbs)
- Helmet (to protect from falling rocks or debris)
- Fixed ropes
- Carabiners
You should choose the gear designed for the rough and tough conditions of the Himalayas. Invest your money only in top quality and durable gear that will keep you safe and provide the maximum chance of summiting the mountain.
Efficient Acclimatization Strategies
A proper acclimatization plan is very critical while climbing at high altitudes. As Manaslu elevates over 8,000 meters, the chance of altitude sickness is usually common. You will need to incorporate the rest days in your itinerary, depending on how fit you are.
These rest days will give your body the opportunity to get used to thin air. It is also essential for keeping you fresh, active and healthy while ensuring higher possibilities for a successful expedition.
Equipped With a Comprehensive First Aid Kit
The first aid kit is helpful in case you face minor health issues or injuries during the mountain journey. In the event of sudden accidents there should be a medical kit in the right amount with all necessary items mentioned hereafter:
- Medication for altitude sickness (Diamox or Acetazolamide)
- Painkillers for headaches or discomfort
- Treatment for blisters
- Sterile gauze pads
- Adhesive bandages
- Antiseptic wipes for cleaning injuries
- Sprays for sprains
- Oral rehydration salts (to avoid dehydration)
- Antibiotics (in case of infection)
- Oximeters to monitor oxygen levels and pulse rates
Hiring Experienced Guides
Manaslu is more easy to climb with the help of experts. The Sherpa guides from the Himalayas are familiar with and habitual in climbing high peaks and play crucial roles in your safety during the expedition.
Likewise, their experience in terrain will guide you along a difficult route with ease. Moreover, their specialized training becomes invaluable in coming out of emergency situations. Guides also offer the needed mental support and encouragement to build confidence, which is important for successfully reaching the summit.
Prakash Devkota
Managing Director and Team Leader
Mr. Prakash Chandra Devkota is an established name in the Tourism Sector in Nepal. He is a focused individual gifted with a brilliant mind. He is also hugely dedicated to social work. Born in the Gorkha district, a beautiful hilly region of Nepal, he first entered the tourism industry as a guide in 1997. He has gained extensive experience in almost all the trekking and climbing routes like Mera, Island, Lobuche and, Ama Dablam, etc.
He registered Nepal Guides Treks & Expedition in 2009 AD. Due to his passion for adventure and efforts to provide quality personalized service to his clients, he has established himself as a successful tourism entrepreneur. He has dedicated most of his time working diligently to elevate the tourism industry and collected more than 15 years of experience in organizing trekking and expeditions in Nepal, Bhutan, and India. He believes in the power of the tourism industry and the employment opportunities that can be created through it. He constantly looks for innovative ways to run the company.
Mr. Devkota has always been an avid practitioner of eco-friendly tourism and has always promoted environmental conservation throughout his career. He motivates his staff to embrace eco-friendly tourism through responsible tourism practices. He believes promoting eco-tourism will preserve natural resources and positively impact the environment.
